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Climbing

Climbing Spring 2020

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

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País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidad:
Bimonthly
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5,19 €(IVA inc.)
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12,96 €(IVA inc.)
6 Números

en este número

3 min.
50 years and counting…

Issue No. 1 of Climbing (May 1970) was an unassuming, black-and-white, staple-bound 25 pages directed “to the interests of rockclimbers and mountaineers.” Climbing has since become one of the biggest, most-recognized brands in the vertical world, with an enduring print title, a juggernaut of a website and social media presence, and even an online-education division. And, as of this year, we’re 50 years old—and 372 issues in! I’ve been reading the title ever since I first touched rock. In 1988, on my walk home from Highland High, I detoured to the Wilderness Center outdoor shop in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where I spent my lunch money on my very first copy of Climbing, No. 106. I devoured it in one evening, from the new-route lists in Basecamp, to the features on far-flung…

1 min.
chosspile

Caption Contest PAUL SAGAR is the winner of our inaugural Caption Contest, which we’ll be rolling out all of 2020 with cartoons from Jordan Peterson (@jordankpeterson_)—stay tuned to Climbing’s social channels for more. For his caption, Paul wins a 70m 9.6mm Siurana plus a rope bag from Fixe Hardware. See climbing.com/captioncontest372 for more. FIXEhardware QUICK CLIPS We’ve retooled Quick Clips starting with this issue, picking the best tip to run in print and then posting it and all other submissions online (climbing.com/quickclips372). “I use old firehose from the local fire department for rope protectors. The department just gets rid of it once its serviceable life is up. Use it over edges or around trees to prevent damage to rope and nature. It’s tough and holds up for years.”–SAM THEMAN Got an amazing Quick Clip? Send it to…

9 min.
50 years in gear

Fifty years ago, a traditional climber attempting a free ascent of the Naked Edge in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, would get out of his car wearing Kletterschuhe, corduroy knickers, and a T-shirt. He’d tie a swami belt around his waist, put a gear sling over his shoulder, rack up 15 pitons and 15 to 20 aluminum carabiners, and grab his piton hammer, four-foot-long, flat nylon runners, and short loops of flat 5/8-inch webbing. A coiled 40m 11mm twisted nylon lead rope was then thrown over the shoulder, and his partner had a duplicate haul and/or rap line. The climbers might bring just a Snickers bar and a pint of water. Off to the climb! Today, your Naked Edge kit would be safer, lighter, and more specialized. Here are the big evolutions…

5 min.
from fringe activity to sport

In the mid-1970s, Earl Wiggins dropped out of high school to pursue climbing full-time. There were no gyms, and the only way you got good was by climbing every day, outside, a basic rack of aluminum shapes slung over your shoulder. Take Wiggins’s bold FA of Supercrack (5.10) in Indian Creek in 1976 with Ed Webster and Bryan Becker, on which Wiggins optimistically slotted Hexes into the parallel crack. A photo shows Wiggins’s wild hair sticking out, baggy polyester pants covering his thin frame. He’s the definition of the societal-dropout climber (aka “dirtbag”) from that period. A half-century ago, climbing was a countercultural activity, an “Eff you” to the mainstream that had begun with the climbers who gathered in Camp 4 and at the Gunks in the 1950s and ‘60s. Perhaps…

7 min.
sand rock, alabama

Sand Rock, or more formally Cherokee Rock Village, sits atop Lookout Mountain, Alabama, overlooking the sleepy town of Leesburg and Weiss Lake. Today a property of the Public Parks and Recreation Board of Cherokee County, the park offers a quarter-mile of wall-to-wall climbing on sandstone spires, featuring unlimited boulder problems, over 140 sport routes up to 5.13, ample topropes, and a scattering of trad routes. Dozens of primitive campsites line the back of the pinnacles, and there’s even a bathhouse with hot showers in the center of the 200-acre park. Sand Rock is a 1- or 1.5-hour drive from Chattanooga, Birmingham, and Atlanta—it sees 50,000 visitors a year, many of them climbers. Not surprisingly, this ease of access and proximity to large urban areas have almost been the park’s downfall. Climbing…

7 min.
shout, shout, let it all out

Recently, at Dude’s Throne in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, Colorado, I was gunning for my first 5.13, a power-endurance route called Buster Brown (5.13a). At the crux bulge, I grabbed a weird pocket-undercling and set up for a lunge. As sunset lit the orange-patinaed granite, I moved into the dyno, giving off a robust scream. Its echo skittered around the valley, still Dopplering long after I’d blown the move. From the alpine lake below—out of sight in the pines—some fishermen laughed. Then one of them yelled up, “What’s your safe word?” BENEFITS OF SCREAMING I’m no pro climber, but I’ve been told I scream at an elite level. This probably has to do with my early training in martial arts, in which I learned to harness the explosive power of the…