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Climbing

Climbing February - March 2016

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

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País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidad:
Bimonthly
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5,08 €(IVA inc.)
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12,67 €(IVA inc.)
6 Números

en este número

5 min.
world’s coolest climbing structures

NAME Manchester Climbing Centre PLACE Manchester, England HEIGHT 70 feet While some might view climbing as their religion, the Manchester Climbing Centre takes it to a whole new level by putting a climbing wall in an actual church. From the outside it looks like a classic Victorianera church (it was formerly known as St. Benedict’s), but on the inside it looks like a new, modern climbing gym with 21metertall walls, more than 70 routes, and two bouldering areas. Once inside, the only thing that might tip an unsuspecting climber off to the fact that he’s sweating and cursing in a church are the massive stainedglass windows throughout the building. NAME Excalibur at Bjoeks Climbing Center PLACE Groningen, Netherlands HEIGHT 121 feet Founder Gert van der Veen says, “I translated my Fontainebleau and Verdon dreams into the concrete…

1 min.
contributors

[Brady Robinson] Brady is the Executive Director of the Access Fund, board director of Outdoor Alliance, and a longtime climber with first ascents in Patagonia and Pakistan. After attending an Access Fund Rock Project event in Denver, we asked Brady to lend his insight about what climbers could be doing better at the crag. Surprise: It’s something more than picking up trash. See page 72. [Kevin Corrigan] Kevin competed five consecutive years in the Rock, Paper, Scissor World Championships, always losing pretty badly, before hanging up his dreams and pursuing glory in the comparatively easy sport of rock climbing. See what he learned working with the biggest names in coaching and training (for rock climbing, not RPS) on page 60. [Emily Meg Weinstein] Emily is a climber living in the San Francisco Bay and can…

2 min.
the harder you train

As the old saying goes, the harder you climb, the more you can climb. It makes obvious sense, but let’s see how it looks from a statistical perspective. There are 136,494 routes on Mountain Project as of this moment, and roughly 96,000 of those are rock routes (the rest are ice or mixed routes or boulder problems). If you currently climb 5.9, 39% of those routes should be doable for you. Climb one grade harder, though, and all of a sudden you have access to 67% of the routes in America (5.10 is quite a sweet spot). Get proficient enough to climb 5.12d, and your potential routes outlook spikes to a whopping 97%. So yeah, the adage is true: the harder you climb, the more you can climb (until you reach…

3 min.
10 questions with alex puccio

1 What do you think is your greatest strength as a climber? One of my physical strengths is power. Because of my genetics, I have never had to try to build muscle. I hated it when I was younger. I didn’t like that my body was different than all the other girls at school, but I learned that it’s something I should love and be proud of, and that it would help me become a world-class athlete. 2 Greatest weakness? I have been working on my mental game for competitions. In the past I struggled with the pressure in finals at World Cups. I have learned that there needs to be a balance between striving to accomplish my goals and having fun. That’s what I have been working on a lot. 3 You’re recovering…

1 min.
#climbingstrength

Showing off my human flag in between coaching climbers. -NIC DUERR (TRAINHARDBUTSMART.COM) Campusing on some new fencing. By day I run a landscaping company. By night I train pros, the Great Britain comp team, and everyday climbers in strength and conditioning. @BLOCFIT Climbing strong in Fontainebleau! -SIMON UHLENBUSCH I have multiple sclerosis but still climb hard! Here I’m leading Zoaster Toaster (5.11d) in Maple Canyon, Utah. I stick-clip the first bolt because my legs have been known to give out on me. -BRAD DECAMP CONSENSUS How many days per week do you climb in the gym? IN WINTER MOST POPULAR RESPONSE: Three days a week 34% You can have the whole crag to yourself when it’s covered in snow. IN SUMMER MOST POPULAR RESPONSE: Zero days a week 30% You can have the whole gym to yourself when you’re covered in sweat.…

1 min.
overheard

“The only significant training day is the one where you get injured. Everything else is just another data point.” —Astute advice from Boulder Rock Club head coach/trainer Chris Wall “I always want easy climbs to be longer and hard climbs to be shorter.” —Photographer/videographer and frequent Climbing contributor Alton Richardson “Our industry is at the end of infancy and the beginning of puberty, but as we know, the main activity in that period is masturbation. For some, the real sex is close, or maybe even started. But the real orgy is about to come.” —Walltopia founder Ivaylo Penchev in a Bloomburg Business profile, on the upcoming climbing industry, um… orgy “Maybe when I’m old, and I don’t care if I die.” —Alex Puccio, while staring at a mountaineering photo, when asked if she’d ever like to climb…