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Climbing

Climbing October 2015

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

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País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidad:
Bimonthly
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5,08 €(IVA inc.)
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12,67 €(IVA inc.)
6 Números

en este número

3 min.
flash

CLIMBER Mike Stuart ROUTE Unnammed DIFFICULTY WI6 LOCATION Athabasca Glacier, Alberta, Canada Despite postponing the shoot several times to wait for favorable ice climbing conditions, patience paid off for photographer Paul Zizka when the aurora borealis made an unexpected appearance, especially rare so far south of the Arctic Circle. Caused by charged particles interacting with the surrounding atmosphere, the light display of the aurora is most commonly seen at high latitudes in the Arctic and Antarctic regions of the globe. Because of its location between major Alberta towns Banff and Jasper, and accessibility by foot, the Athabasca Glacier is the most visited glacier in North America. Zizka had friend Takeshi Tani hide just below the lip of the snow cave to provide a lighting element in the center of the frame. CLIMBER Jimmy Webb ROUTE Walk the Plank DIFFICULTY V4 LOCATION Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands For…

1 min.
contributors

[Andrew Burr] Our senior contributing photographer is the hardest working shooter in the biz. Anywhere you see climbing imagery, you’ll find his name. He’s just a machine, and the climbers he works with love him (despite his aversion to deodorant) because he can jug lines like a maniac to nail any shot. Turn to page 47 to up your own jugging game, essential for any big wall goals. [Anne-Gilbert Chase] I met Gilbert five years ago during guide training at Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., in Ashford, Washington. We were rookie guides learning the ropes. Now she’s a Bozeman-based pro climber, and a soon-to-be registered nurse, gearing up to tackle a new route on a 6,000m peak in India. High-five, Gilbert! She gives us her essential crack climbing tips on page 31. [Dawn Glanc] Over dinner at…

2 min.
date with rocktober

Man, I love magazines. No matter where you are, you can pick up damn near any one and get transported to different worlds, learn new things, and get psyched and challenged by creative ideas and images. Who hasn’t saved a few inspirational issues or ripped a photo out to slap in a gear closet or gym locker? I always wanted to be a part of that unique magic only a magazine can deliver (especially a climbing magazine, seriously I like them all), and I’m grateful that I get to be. This is my 30th issue at Climbing, and I hope our goal to inspire and enable you to climb harder and more often and to just plain have more fun as a climber has been fruitful in your life. We editors…

1 min.
unsolicited beta

Good stuff on trad climbing in the September issue! I have two suggestions for communicating with your partner. 1. It’s essential to shout your partner’s name with any command, but some climbers should use nicknames. A few years ago at Seneca Rocks, I climbed next to someone named Brock. Every time his partner called his name, everyone below scurried for cover. 2. “Off belay” and “on belay” can sound nearly identical because consonants wipe out in high noise. After some potentially dangerous confusion, I have switched to “I’m safe” instead of “off belay.” With emphasis on the vowels, “IIIIII’m saaafe” and “beeeelay on” are highly distinguishable. —Mark Nord, Hyattsville, MD I love reading Climbing magazine. Over the past several months it has been one of my few connections to the climbing world. I have…

2 min.
10 questions with sasha digiulian

1 What do you think is your greatest strength as a climber? I think my greatest strength is my willingness to try—generally I am up for any adventure. 2 Greatest weakness? My greatest climbing weakness is dynos. My greatest weakness as a climber is when I doubt myself. 3 How do you celebrate a big send? With friends! A relaxing night with those I’m closest to brings me the greatest joy. I also love fun adventures outside that may not include climbing. Enjoying where I am without stressing about a project is nice. 4 If you never discovered climbing, what do you think you’d be doing today instead? I was a competitive figure skater before climbing. Maybe I would be pursuing figure skating, but at this point I might be getting older in that sport. It’s safe…

2 min.
#favoriteroute

Gold Rush (5.10-) at Trout Creek, Oregon. After 70 feet of splitter hand jams, I cranked through Dame el Oro, the 5.11 extension that ended with a dyno to the rim of the cliff. Photo: Juan Diego Reyes —MICHAEL HOLLAND The Missing Link (5.12a) in Hong Kong. It’s a beautiful crag, 15-minute approach, and neat, techy climbing with foot-hand matches and gastons into throwy deadpoints to crimps! —EUGENE MAK Blast from the Past (5.10) at Christianity Spire in Sedona, Arizona. An awesome finger crack accompanies the last section of the wide 160-foot first pitch. —DAVID TELLECHEA Lady Luck (5.11d) at Otter Cliffs, Maine. The ocean waves crashing behind you will make you never want to climb anywhere else again. —JUSTIN PADINSKE Forearm Frenzy (5.11b) at Chatfield Hollow, Connecticut. My friend Jeremy Marcantonio on the classic Connecticut crack. It…