PieceWork November - December 2016

PieceWork is the only magazine for those who love all things made by hand and the history behind them. Every issue explores the life and work of traditional needleworkers, takes an in-depth look at historical needlework techniques, and gives instructions for making heirloom-quality projects of your own.

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United States
Long Thread Media LLC
8,47 €(IVA inc.)
25,42 €(IVA inc.)
4 Números

en este número

2 min.

In his seminal book The Story of Silk (New York: Lifetime Editions, 1949), William F. Leggett writes: “The story of silk is as romantic as any in history. It comes down to us shrouded in both mystery and mythology. Up to this day, although many attempts have been made, neither science nor accident has produced any fine textile fiber that approaches the marvelous combination of utility and beauty so characteristic of silk. There is no substitute for it.” Julie Turjoman and Michael Cook are equally as eloquent on the topic of silk. In her article in this issue, “Peace Silk from India: A Walk on the Wild Side of Sericulture,” Julie writes: “Silk. Both the sibilant first letter and the emphatic final consonant of this short word express almost everything we…

3 min.

EXHIBITIONS Berkeley, California: November 2016–September 2017. The Home Sewer—1920s, at Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles, 2 Floor Gallery. (510) 843-7290; www.lacismuseum.org. Los Angeles, California: Through December 23. Man Mode: Dressing the Male Ego, at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum. (213) 623-5821; http://fidmmuseum.pastperfectonline.com. San Francisco, California: Through February 12, 2017. The Sumatran Ship Cloth, at the de Young Museum. (415) 750-3600; www.deyoung.famsf.org. San Francisco, California: November 19, 2016–January 29, 2017. Read My Pins: The Madeleine Albright Collection, at the Legion of Honor. (415) 750-3600; www.legionofhonor.famsf.org. District of Columbia: November 5, 2016–January 31, 2017. Bingata! Only in Okinawa, at George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum. (202) 994-5200; www.museum.gwu.edu. Chicago, Illinois: Through August 20, 2017. Making Mainbocher: The First American Couturier, at the Chicago History Museum. (312) 642-4600; www.chicagohistory.org. Topeka, Kansas: November 1–December 23.…

1 min.

Botanic Elegance Natural dyes take a skilled hand and a bit of finesse, yet the results are breathtaking. Silk & Willow’s Plant Dyed Silk Ribbons exemplify the art of this fine craft. Steeped in nature’s rich palette, each ribbon is one of a kind. Entwined around a special gift or used as a trim on handcrafted needlework, these ribbons infuse a dash of botanic elegance. www.silkandwillow.com. Lustrous Floss Hand-Dyed Silk Floss from Gloriana Threads adds depth and luster to your most cherished needlework. With an extensive palette of 204 colors, from subtle semisolid to vibrant variegated, this twelve-strand floss glides through fabric. You are sure to find a color perfect for your next project. www.glorianathreads.com. Luxurious Lace Looking for the perfect gift for the lace knitter in your life? Pamper yourself or someone special with…

7 min.
catch it if you can—silk fly fringe

Fly fringe: its etymology involves entomology! The origin of the name “fly fringe,” notes Jeffrey Hopper, conservator and interim manager of Boston’s historic Wentworth-Gardner House, can be traced to the insect world through its translation: soucil de hanneton. “Soucil” is French for “eyebrow”; a “hanneton” is a European May beetle (cockchafer), a dapper little dandy whose antennae are individually tipped with large, feathery orange fans. If you look at the individual silk tufts characteristic of fly fringe, the resemblance becomes immediately apparent. Fly fringe was a popular trim for dresses and gowns in the eighteenth century. With little or no evidence of this particular name in general use during that era, however, some historians believe the term is a more recent identifier common to America and England. Certain other theorists see…

1 min.
fly fringe’s predecessor

Basic knotting is the place to begin when tracing the history of fly fringe. In the 1700s, knotting (working overhand knots at regular intervals along a length of cord) was so prevalent a pastime among upper-class women, it was not unusual for portraits to show them holding a knotting shuttle, identifiable for its size, which is larger than a tatting shuttle. In the 1771 Portrait of Elizabeth de Vallée de la Roche, Michel Pierre Hubert Descours (1741–1814) depicts Elizabeth (1743–1811) in the process of knotting—shuttle poised in her right hand and completed knotting between her left hand and the work bag which, one assumes, holds yet more of the finished product. Knotting was simple to master; materials were minimal. Everything could be slipped into the small work bag one carried when…

1 min.
looking at fly fringe in a modern way

In addition to the images shown here, many interesting images and videos relating to fly fringe are available on the Internet. Below is a list of a few sites that are worth checking out. • Elaborate French passementerie with fly fringe, reproduced from Gallica, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France’s online reference site: http://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/2015/06/fabulous-flies.htmlandhttp://thegoldenscissors.blogspot.com/2015/06/more-fabulous-flies.html. • Video of Colonial Williamsburg apprentice making flies and binding them into chain-stitch braid: www.facebook.com/cwhistorictrades/videos/248410875514114. • Video of gown at Newhailes in Scotland: www.nts.org.uk/property/newhailes. • Sleeve detail of sack-back gown at the Victoria & Albert Museum: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O127210/sack-back-unknown. • Robe à la Francaise at The Metropolitan Museum of Art: www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82640?sortby=relevance&ft=fly+fringe&pg=1&rpp=20&pos=2). • Gown with solid fly fringe at The Mint Museum, Charlotte, North Carolina: www.mintmuseum.org/art/collections/item/robe-a-la-fran-ccedil-aise-dressed-a-la-polonaise. • Fly-fringe apron at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston: www.mfa.org/collections/object/openwork-cording-apron-119440. • Fly-fringe shawl at the Nordiska Museet: http://digitaltmuseum.se/011013849830/gallery?search_context=1&pos=13&count=2032& name=Kl%C3%A4der. • Information on…