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SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON Spring - Summer 2020

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
SHOWDETAILS SRL
Periodicidad:
Biannually
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2 Números

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2 min.
paris

At a time in which a 16-year-old girl is reminding us all of our minor and major responsibilities towards the climate emergency, the fashion industry is bringing the debate straight to the runways, with designers beginning to offer sustainable alternatives. Aside from having to be seen as being committed to this issue, sustainability is doubtless a great opportunity for creatives as it challenges them to reinvent themselves and their work, rediscovering certain values that the profession could have risked losing sight of. We are talking about the values of craftsmanship, respect for manual skills, appreciation of the contribution every craftsperson makes towards a garment. Alongside that comes a focus on the brand’s tradition, not in order to produce anachronistic collections but to hold on to its identity and understand what…

2 min.
heritage

One of the season’s key aims is to seek out roots and traditions dealing with craftsmanship, handmade and reuse. After all, if there is one way for designers to be sustainable, as is becoming increasingly urgent and necessary, it’s precisely in rediscovering this side of fashion. Which is what Sarah Burton is doing at Alexander McQueen: the designer creates one of her best collections, using recycled materials such as lace, organza and tulle in virginal long dresses cinched at the waist by a wide belt. Other dresses are made with linen from the sole remaining linen weaver in Ireland, while tailoring is in British Mohair, produced by mills in the north of England. Handmade and craftsmanship, as well as garments handed down through the generations, are the key themes in the new…

2 min.
seventy redux

IThe Seventies just keep coming up on the runways and perhaps they always will. One explanation is that certain long-standing brands really came to the fore during the decade. This is the case for Celine, which is something current creative director Hedi Slimane understands. For this new collection, he returns to the archetypal young chic Parisian bourgeoisie, offering gathered collars or pussy bows, fluid dresses with a belted waist and midi length skirts with soft boots, as well as the classic high-waist jeans, seen here in a boot-cut version, worn with blazers or boxy jackets. ‘Madame Claude’ is a film inspired by the eponymous Parisian maîtresse who ran a high-class prostitution network in the ’60s and ’70s. Richard René uses her as his muse for his latest Guy Laroche collection packed with…

2 min.
minimal core

Reduce, simplify, strip back. Many designers have this ambition and each does it in his/her own way. When designing her new collection for Chloé, Natacha Ramsay-Levi thought: “let’s simplify, be honest and true”. Now in her fifth season at the brand, the designer opens with a fluid white shirt over pinstripe trousers and ends with a peach-coloured long plissé dress. In between, more pinstripe masculine suits, blazers, skirts and shorts (underneath which silk boxers peek out), a few visible bras and the odd delicate micro floral print. In 1993 Clare Waight Keller moved to New York to work at Calvin Klein. The style elements of that period, which she remembers as being full of change and energy, can be seen in her new collection for Givenchy. Trousers, shorts, skirts and overcoats come…

2 min.
paris

In un momento in cui l’emergenza climatica, nelle vesti di una ragazzina di 16 anni, chiama tutti alle proprie piccole e grandi responsabilità, l’industria della moda porta il dibattito dritto sulle passerelle, con i designer che cominciano a proporre alternative sostenibili. Aldilà dell’impegno ormai obbligato che sono chiamati a prendersi, questa della sostenibilità rappresenta per i creativi una grande opportunità, una sfida a reinventare e reinventarsi, riscoprendo anche certi valori che per la professione possono sembrare scontati ma che in realtà non lo sono. I valori dell’artigianato, del rispetto per la manodopera, della valorizzazione dell’apporto che ogni singolo sarto può portare alla realizzazione di un capo e, insieme a essi, l’attenzione per la tradizione legata al marchio, non per produrre collezioni anacronistiche, ma per non perderne l’identità e capire cosa…

2 min.
heritage

È certamente uno dei temi più forti della stagione, quello del ricercare radici e tradizioni che hanno a che fare con artigianalità, handmade e riuso. Anche perché, se c’è un modo per i designer di essere sostenibili, come sta diventando sempre più urgente e necessario, è proprio quello di riscoprire questo lato della moda. Come fa Sarah Burton per Alexander McQueen: la designer crea una delle sue migliori collezioni, puntando su materiali di recupero come pizzo, organza e tulle, per virginali long dress serrati in vita da spesse cinture. Altri abiti sono invece fatti con il lino dell’unico tessitore rimasto in Irlanda, mentre la sartoria è in British Mohair, prodotto dai lanifici del Nord Inghilterra. Il fatto a mano e l’artigianalità, oltre a certi capi che si tramandano di generazione in…