Gourmet Traveller




Vester Sømarken, Bornholm, Denmark Nicolai Nørregaard

Bornholm, a tiny island in the Baltic Sea, just off the coast of Denmark, provides the culinary inspiration for Kadeau. Describing his only neighbours as the forest, the beach and the sea, the focus of co-owner and head chef Nicolai Nørregaard’s menu is his love for his native island. Ingredients come from the herb and vegetable garden, and wild foods are foraged from the surrounding landscape. The nature of Bornholm, Nørregaard says, is the backbone of the restaurant.


Roast baby carrots and beets with chickpeas and yoghurt-tahini dressing at The Agrarian Eatery.

Lachlan, Tasmania, Australia Rodney Dunn & Séverine Demanet

In 2007, Rodney Dunn and his wife, Séverine Demanet, moved from Sydney to Tasmania, where they transformed a schoolhouse into a cooking school surrounded by two hectares of farmland. They later opened The Agrarian Eatery restaurant in New Norfolk. Celebrating local and seasonal produce, The Agrarian Kitchen is committed to reconnecting with the surroundings. Many of the ingredients come from the substantial organic vegetable garden, orchard and herb garden.


“It’s really important for cooks to understand how difficult it is to grow things,” says Ben Shewry.

Ripponlea, Victoria, Australia Ben Shewry

Ben Shewry grew up in rural New Zealand, surrounded by nature, influenced by the traditions of the Māori people and inspired by his family’s bucolic self-sufficiency. At his acclaimād restaurant, Attica, in Melbourne, Shewry has been the author of a new chapter for indigenous Australian produce and a champion of modern Australian cuisine. In 2011, he established an on-site kitchen garden to further explore his fascination with native ingredients and also now grows produce at the nearby Rippon Lea Estate.



Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Rafael Costa e Silva

Opened in 2014, Lasai holds a strong connection to its Brazilian roots. Rio-born chef Rafael Costa e Silva bases his cuisine around the ingredients supplied by a rich network of farmers, fishermen and artisans of his hometown. As Lasai has evolved, two company-run gardens have been set up: a small one in the city supplying eggs, and another larger plot, which grows a high percentage of the restaurant’s fruit and vegetables.


Menton, Côte d’Azur, France Mauro Colagreco

Argentinian-born chef Mauro Colagreco opened his first restaurant in a 1930s glass-fronted building on the French Riviera in 2006, at just 29 years old. Within a few years he transformed the surrounding gardens into “the spiritual heart” of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant. The constantly evolving menu is inspired by the location on the Italy-France border, the Alps and the Mediterranean Sea, along with the herbs, vegetables and fruits that are harvested daily.



“You have to have a sense of humility when you grow plants – never forget that nature is in charge,” says Sébastien Bras.

Laguiole, France Michel & Sébastien Bras

Michel Bras inherited his family restaurant when he was 33, gaining two Michelin stars before opening Le Suquet in 1992. In 1999, he was awarded his third Michelin star. His son, Sébastien, is now head chef and Michel oversees the garden nearby, which provides vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers for the restaurant.

This extract from The Garden Chef by Jeremy Fox (Phaidon, $59.95, hbk) has been reproduced with minor GT style changes.