November 2020

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12 Numerot

tässä numerossa

2 min

Paul Mpagi Sepuya When the pandemic started, photographer Paul Mpagi Sepuya had just installed an exhibition at Los Angeles’s Vielmetter gallery. Suddenly the space had to close. Sepuya’s images—often shot into and around mirrors, with the camera visible—were stuck staring at one another. “What I tell folks is that it felt like filling up an Egyptian or Assyrian tomb, left for the afterlife,” Sepuya says. He has since been working from his Jefferson Park home—he and his partner are nurturing a garden of California plants, from monkey flowers to manzanitas—as well as his studio, where he captured designers House of Aama (page 90) and Kenneth Nicholson (page 102) for this issue. Lately Sepuya has concentrated on creating collages, which he sees as “a pleasant way to work through material that has…

12 min
brave new world

My nose wouldn’t stop bleeding. It was the winter of 2019, and I was standing outside the Brooklyn Museum in front of a statue of a woman carved from granite. Her neck was strong, her arms thick. Our chins were both held high––hers with confidence, mine to stop the blood. Chronic nosebleeds had long been a childhood affliction, but at 28, I thought I’d grown out of them. Moments earlier, I had run into my former piano instructor. “Didn’t your father just die?” he asked. “How old was he? Were you with him?” “Eight months ago,” I said, shivering. “He was 85. I was holding his hand.” From there, he deflected, talking about the recent passing of his dog. And then he’d said, “Well, 85. That’s a pretty good run, isn’t it?” The last…

6 min
the class of 2020

Traditionally, November has been the month when the latest crop of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists is formally introduced in the pages of this magazine, but for the first time in its history, that celebration has been deferred for the year. Back in March, as the orders to shelter in place were sweeping the country and the devastating economic impact of the pandemic was beginning to be felt by the fashion industry, it quickly became apparent that an immediate response to the crisis was required, and within a matter of weeks, the fund was repurposed under the umbrella A Common Thread to relieve designers and fashion brands facing severe financial hardship. Just as the original Fashion Fund was launched in the wake of 9/11 to foster a new generation of designers, this…

6 min
time regained

As About Time: Fashion and Duration was preparing to open on October 29, Andrew Bolton, the Wendy Yu Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, spoke to Hamish Bowles about his process of reflection and re-curation. To be honest, it’s been wonderful to revisit “About Time”—a luxury that I’ve never had in any previous exhibition. As I have said, I wanted to stage an exhibition that was a meditation on fashion and temporality—drawing out the tensions between change and endurance, transience and permanence, ephemerality and persistence. Originally the idea was to create two timelines: a linear chronology of fashion from 1870 to 2020, celebrating the Met’s 150th anniversary and focusing on the fleeting and fugitive rhythm of fashion. The second timeline—the “interventions”—would represent a series…

7 min
free range

For the first time since we started rewilding, in 2000, I sensed my husband, Charlie’s, resolve beginning to waver. Letters from neighbors were reaching a crescendo of outrage. Over the nine years since we began handing Knepp Estate, our 3,500-acre farm in West Sussex, over to nature we had weathered complaints about our free-roaming animals, outbreaks of ragwort, unkempt hedgerows, and thorny scrub desecrating the picture-postcard image of England’s green and pleasant land. Every time, we had held our nerve, sticking to the principle we had adopted at the start of the project: to sit on our hands and leave nature in the driving seat. This time, though, it seemed we might have come off the road. The culprit was creeping thistle: acres upon acres of it, three feet high, engulfing…

1 min
in the buff

The notoriously pared-back stylist Danielle Goldberg has a piece of beauty advice for her coterie of A-list clients, which includes Laura Harrier, Camille Rowe, and Katherine Waterston: Start buffing your nails. “I instantly feel more done because my nails are polished in this natural way,” Goldberg says of rubbing her nail bed with foam blocks until a natural sheen emerges that rivals the fresh-from-the-salon finish of a glossy top coat. “It’s a very minimalist, low-key look,” confirms Amy Ling Lin, the founder of New York’s Sundays nail studios, who launched her own do-it-yourself buffing-and-shaping set—an extensive 23-piece collection that includes two smoothing buffer blocks and a hydrating cuticle serum—in April after finding success with virtual classes on the art of at-home nail maintenance. And it seems to have staying power.…