Food & Wine April 2023

NV NINO FRANCO RUSTICO PROSECCO ($23) I had the pleasure of having lunch with the always charming Primo Franco in NYC in February and was reacquainted with just how good his basic Prosecco is. (For a splurge, check out his remarkable single-vineyard Grave di Stecca bottling.) 2020 MAS ALTA ARTIGAS PRIORAT ($35) Most Priorat reds run $60+, but this intensely aromatic, luscious blend of organically grown Grenache, Carignane, and Cabernet Sauvignon somehow clocks in well under that. Grilling hamburgers? A big honkin’ rib eye? Here’s your answer. ALTA GRADAZIONE AMARIO ($49) I love an amaro at the end of a meal, and recently, Randi Lee, the owner of Brooklyn’s Leland Eating and Drinking House, turned me on to this freshly herbal and spicy one. It comes from a new house founded by four young amaro…

Wine Reimagined SILICON VALLEY BANK recently published its annual State of the U.S. Wine Industry Report. Written by SVB Executive Vice President Rob McMillan, it showed a clear trend in consumer behavior, which The New York Times summed up with a pull-no-punches headline: “The American Wine Industry Has an Old People Problem.” The report found that wine sales are slipping in every age bracket except people over 60. The issue, McMillan feels, isn’t wine itself; it’s that the wine business isn’t reaching out to younger consumers effectively. He recommends investing more in values-driven marketing and advertising and being more transparent about the grapes that go into the bottle and the people who grow, harvest, and ferment them. He argues that the industry as a whole needs to do a better job telling…

THE NEXT TIME YOU’RE REACHING for a lime or a lemon to add to a cocktail, consider making a shrub instead, suggests Erin Healy, beverage director of Gramercy Tavern in New York City. Shrubs are concentrated, vinegar-based syrups that have been either infused with or made from flavorings like fruit, flowers, and chiles. Shrubs have been around for centuries and were originally created to preserve herbs and roots by turning them into edible tinctures. They contain no alcohol, and their silky weight—similar to the texture of amaros and liqueurs—also brings body and depth to nonalcoholic cocktails, a segment of the drinks industry that was an early adopter of the vinegar-based syrup. More recently, shrubs are enjoying a renaissance on cocktail menus around the country, as bartenders use them to bring brightness…

THERE’S A LOT TO LOVE ABOUT BEING A WINE editor, but there is one downside: carrying heavy wine bottles from place to place. We’ve learned through years of experience that having a functional, sturdy, and attractive wine bag can make all the difference. So whether you’re a beverage professional who constantly carries a bottle or two around, or you’re just someone looking for a reusable alternative to bring to the wine store, trust us to help you discover your new favorite wine bag. 1. VIN ONE BOTTLE PICNIC TOTE by Àplat Àplat relied on the art of origami and the principles of sustainable design to create this sleek tote. “The canvas side pockets are perfectly sized for shatterproof cups or wineglasses,” says Oset Babür-Winter, senior drinks editor. ($62, aplat.com) 2. WINEBAG by NIMES Handcrafted in Buenos…

DECANTERS CAN BE MINIMALIST AND SLEEK or strikingly decorative. But regardless of their style, shape, or size, decanters help to aerate wine, drawing out more of its aromas and flavors: Think of decanters as you would a pair of eyeglasses, designed to help you see the blurrier, more complicated aspects of wine with a bit more clarity. They are also great to use with older wines, making it easier to keep sediment out of your glass. Read on for five of our favorite beautifully designed decanters. 1. For the Wine Lover Who’s Short on Space RIEDEL WINE FRIENDLY DECANTER Don’t let the petite size of this decanter fool you—we were pleased to find it decanted a big, bold red wine quicker than most of the decanters we’ve tried, and the ribbed glass lip…

I KNEW I WAS AT THE RIGHT APARTMENT in Brooklyn. Above the doorbell was a tiny handwritten sign: “Banchan by Sunny.” Sunny is chef Sunny Lee, and for the past seven years, she has been bringing her ingredient-forward, technique-driven Korean food to New York City diners. Lee specializes in banchan, a broad category of small dishes that are traditionally served with a meal in Korean cuisine. (The word translates literally as “side dishes.”) In a restaurant setting, banchan are typically included in the price of the meal, “so there is no incentive to make it really good,” Lee says. “But I love cooking Korean food and banchan because it makes me feel like I’m actually taking care of people.” In her kitchen, she sized up eggplants with a tape measure before chopping,…