Food & Wine November 2018

2015 DOMAINE BOUSQUET GAIA RED BLEND ($20) An Argentine blend of Malbec, Syrah, and a touch of Cabernet made using organic grapes, this darkly fruity red with its soft tannins is a tasty option for fall entertaining. 2016 DELILLE CELLARS CHALEUR BLANC ($37) This Washington white’s grapefruit aromas from Sauvignon Blanc give way to richness and length from Sémillon—and from fermenting and aging in French oak. It’s equally great for cellaring or drinking right now with roast turkey. 2015 DOMAINE RATTE TROUSSEAU À LA DAME ($37) The region is Jura, in France; the grape is Trousseau; and I loved this wine’s sweet forest-berry flavors, slight earthiness, and dry-leaf tannins. This particular bottle might be tough to track down, so open your search to other wineries in the Jura.…

THE CABBAGE CRAZE IS REAL. Chefs across the country are offering innovative takes on the stalwart winter vegetable: smoking, charring, baking, and pureeing it. It turns out that when treated right, cabbage’s bitter, sulfurous compounds can be tamed to yield complex, deep flavors that range from butterscotch-y, caramelized notes to the umami-rich meatiness of a steak—and sold at a price point to match. At Senia in Honolulu, chefs Chris Kajioka and Anthony Rush slow-cook Caraflex cabbage (also known as arrowhead cabbage), a cone-shaped heirloom variety with especially dense leaves that retain a nice crunch after cooking; its lower sulfur content makes its sweetness more pronounced. The chefs start by cooking the cabbage in a bag with clarified butter, compressing the vegetable to make it even denser and to concentrate the flavor.…

With its mountainside resorts, manicured golf courses, and a dynamic food scene, Scottsdale is known for serving up the dolce vita. Savor the scenery in this favorite foodie destination, where culinary hot spots offer up everything from locally inspired classics to inventive global cuisine. Mountain and Valley Views A stunning mix of mountain and desert make Scottsdale a feast for the eyes—and a treat for the taste buds. Situated in the cacti-strewn Sonoran Desert, Talavera at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North has front-row views of towering Pinnacle Peak. Relax in the spacious dining room or on the patio and sample an array of modern Spanish steakhouse fare, from tapas to jamón ibérico. For sophisticated flavors in a breathtaking setting (and sticky buns that have made it a local legend), head…

MTN (VENICE, CALIFORNIA) Grilled Conehead Cabbage At this California produce–driven izakaya, chef Travis Lett marinates Caraflex cabbage in sweet potato vinegar, bakes it, then grills it over binchotan charcoal. The dish is then topped with aioli, chives, sesame, and from-scratch furikake. (mtnvenice.com) ONSEN (SAN FRANCISCO) Cabbage Gyoza Chef George Meza caramelizes Caraflex cabbage, then combines it with sweet black garlic to make a filling for gyoza. Each batch of dumplings is steamed and seared to order, then finished with black garlic–chicken jus and lovage verde. (onsensf.com) SENIA (HONOLULU) Charred Cabbage Slow-cooked Caraflex cabbage is heavily charred, then garnished with shio kombu, dill, Parmesan, and Moringa powder. The wedge, which is the highest-selling plate at the restaurant, is placed atop a pool of housemade green goddess dressing and dotted with buttermilk gel. (restaurantsenia.com) SPQR (SAN FRANCISCO) Cabbage-Wrapped Meatball Best New Chef alum…

CUSTOMIZED CUTS The limited-edition knife roll comes stocked with knives handmade by Will Manning of Heartwood Forge. MAKE HASTE This so-called “Butcher’s Haste,” used for breaking down game, is based on a favorite axe-like blade Hastings picked up at a flea market. ANYTHING GOES An adjustable, detachable strap can be worn cross-body or on a single-shoulder. PERFECTLY IMPERFECT Over time, wear enhances the leather’s natural variations in color and texture, building a rich patina. TAKE COVER Tom Beckbe, the boutique outdoor clothing company that produced the roll, consulted with Birmingham, Alabama, chef Chris Hastings, who voted for extra storage. So the center flap has pockets that hold necessities like spoons. It also flips down to cover, separate, and protect the knife blades as the bag rolls up. BALANCING ACT Offset pockets on both sides spread the weight of the knives evenly…

Rob Rye TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1 At San Francisco’s Linden Room, Ron Boyd spiffs up this classic drink with his own coriander-laced Seville orange vermouth. Carpano Antica Formula makes an easy and delicious substitution, though. ¼ cup (2 oz.) Rittenhouse Rye whiskey or other 100-proof rye whiskey1½ Tbsp. (¾ oz.) Carpano Antica Formula vermouth½ Tbsp. (¼ oz.) Cointreau3 dashes Scrappy’s Black Lemon Bitters or orange bitters1 lemon peel strip1 Luxardo maraschino cherry Pour rye, vermouth, Cointreau, and bitters into a mixing glass; fill with ice. Using a bar spoon, stir until outside of glass is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass or cocktail glass. Twist lemon peel strip over cocktail to express lemon oil onto surface. Rub inside lip of glass with lemon twist, and add to cocktail with cherry. ZACHARY…