Food & Wine February 2019

For the only wine glass you’ll ever need, see p. 45. SPIEGELAU TULIP CLASSICS During the winter months I always lean toward golden Belgian ales, English-style brown ales, and stouts—warming beers even when served cold! I find that these graceful, rounded beer glasses from Spiegelau are perfect for rich beers like these. ($38/4, amazon.com) CRAFTHOUSE BY FORTESSA DOUBLE OLD-FASHIONED GLASSES Double old-fashioned glasses work equally well for whiskey served neat and for mixed drinks like old-fashioneds (crucial as far as I’m concerned), mint juleps, or Negronis. These look great and are break-resistant, too. ($60/4, williams-sonoma.com) LEOPOLD TASTING COUPE Traditionally, a martini (or a Manhattan, my go-to) is served in a cocktail glass. But more and more top bartenders are switching to coupes, both for their retro allure and because they don’t slosh over as easily. They’re…

MY FRIEND JUSTIN SMILLIE is one of those larger-than-life New York City restaurant characters who accrues nicknames like a billionaire compounds interest. He’s a big guy with a big personality, a chef whose cooking yields layers of big flavors. So it makes sense that the new hit at his Miami outpost of Upland is a big salad: It’s large-format, composed of pristine ingredients stacked vertically along the interior curve of a giant wooden bowl, and served with a generous crystal carafe of buttermilk ranch dressing. It turns heads in the dining room. At home, the dish is dinner party gold: Assemble it ahead of time in the biggest, prettiest bowl you own, and pass it around the table with tongs, or serve it tableside with a butler’s flair. Balance is key—you…

WHISKEY DECANTER Seattle artist Greg Clark makes these handsome liquor decanters by hand-blowing and imprinting the glass with a diamond pattern. He uses an antique gray to color the glass and individually grinds each stopper to ensure a tight seal. ($220, vetriglass.com) LAURENCE BRABANT GLASS OIL BOTTLE Handblown from lightweight, sturdy borosilicate (the same glass that laboratories use) by a French husband-and-wife team, this clever oil bottle has two spouts. The lower one catches any drips from the one above, meaning you never waste a drop of good EVOO. ($165, gardeshop.com) LA SOUFFLERIE GLASS CANDLESTICKS These double-walled candlesticks are made in Paris by a glass-blowing co-op specializing in using recycled glass. These make an elegant alternative to weightier table-toppers that conjure up a game of Clue. (Colonel Mustard in the dining room, anyone?) ($28 each,…

KAREN WASHINGTON GETS HER HANDS IN THE DIRT more than most born-and-bred New Yorkers. She has spent the past three decades working in urban gardens and teaching others to do the same in order to create access to fresh food. She is the cofounder of Black Urban Growers, was named one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the country by Ebony, and was the recipient of a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award. We spoke the morning after the block party celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Garden of Happiness, the community garden she helped start in the vacant lot across from her home. JT: You were a physical therapist before you were a community gardener. How did you begin to amplify your therapy work with community gardening? KW: I was a…

BURR COFFEE GRINDER “As popular as blade grinders are, they rip coffee beans apart rather than crushing them like burr grinders do. I have two burr grinders: one for coffee and one for spices. The even, fine grind makes for better extraction of my coffee, and it crushes pepper and coriander perfectly for mignonette.”—CHEF PAUL FEHRIBACH, BIG JONES, CHICAGO BUY IT Breville Smart Grinder Pro ($200, breville.com) RICE COOKER “My rice cooker is my salvation. It’s perfect for dinner, school lunches, and oatmeal for breakfast. I leave the oatmeal overnight, and in the morning, it is nicely cooked. My kids’ school lunch obsession is onigiri (rice balls) filled with an array of ingredients. I fill the rice cooker when I get home at night, and there is fresh rice waiting for us in the…

1 BUTCHER Cut meat into 3-inch-long strips about ¾ inch thick. Strips are better than cubes because they feed smoothly through the grinder, ensuring the process goes quickly and the meat stays cold. 2 FREEZE Place the clean, dry grinder attachments in resealable plastic bags and freeze. Freeze the strips of meat on a baking sheet until the meat holds a fingerprint without bouncing back, about 30 minutes. 3 ASSEMBLE Assemble the chilled grinder with the coarse grinding plate. Place a medium bowl set inside a large bowl of ice underneath the grinder to catch the meat and keep it cold. 4 COARSELY GRIND Set stand mixer to medium speed. Pass meat strips and any seasonings through the feed tube. Fold gently with a spatula to combine; refrigerate meat while assembling grinder with medium or fine grinding…