Food & Wine December 2017

Champagne Wishes Whether you need a bottle to take to a party or 10 cases for a blowout bash, Ray Isle helps you figure it all out with his definitive guide to bubbly. Perfect Pairings Organized by type of wine, with 15 of our favorite recipes for each, this is your go-to cheat sheet for entertaining all year long. $35. Latke Love Don’t miss our menus for the ultimate Hanukkah party, with dishes like crispy Jerusalem artichoke latkes and Andrew Zimmern’s juicy brisket. Mix Master When it comes to hosting a crowd, pre-batched cocktails are key. Our tasty twists on holiday punch and boozy classics make it even easier. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: HANS GISSINGER; TINA RUPP; CHRISTINE HAN; EVA KOLENKO (2)…

CHRISTMAS PAGEANTRY My wife, October, comes from a huge musical family—they all sing and dance. Mine just likes to drink and eat. But on Christmas Eve we do a little talent show with a makeshift stage and a microphone. Everyone has to look presentable— comb your hair and bring a little style. It’s the highlight of the night. Then we open a few gifts. COMPETITIVE EATING I was on the Fox set with Michael Strahan and told him we have to go to The Cannibal in Culver City. They serve a Chinese-style pig’s head that is sooo delicious. Michael will run into a guy full speed with his helmet on, but he won’t eat a little pig’s cheek. That’s crazy. WILL TRAVEL FOR FOOD I’ve done food trips all over the world. This year we…

CAN-DO SPIRIT Want to amp up your holiday hors d’oeuvres? Pop open a tin of salty sardines, smoky smelt or spicy octopus, suggests Best New Chef alum Zoi Antonitsas, who makes a compelling case for tinned seafood at Little Fish (littlefishseattle.com), her new restaurant and cannery in Seattle. “Just because it comes out of a tin doesn’t mean it’s a lesser ingredient—sometimes, it’s a better one,” says Antonitsas, who recommends the Spanish brand La Brújula and Nuri and Luças from Portugal. Whether you’re planning a Yuletide cocktail party or a low-lift Christmas Eve Feast of the Seven Fishes, make canned seafood your secret weapon. PHOTOGRAPH: CON POULOS; FOOD STYLIST: HADAS SMIRNOFF; STYLE EDITOR: SUZIE MYERS…

If you’re going to write a definitive book about something, you might as well give it a definitive title like Champagne ($80). Peter Liem’s book offers an engaging introduction to Champagne’s history, in-depth studies of the region’s different terroirs and profiles of every producer you need to know. As we can attest, the tome will put you in the mood for bubbly. Thankfully, Liem shared five favorites for the holidays. NV Champagne Drappier Brut Nature Zero Dosage ($50) NV Champagne Marguet Shaman 12 ($50) NV Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus Brut ($65) NV Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier Brut ($72) 2011 Louis Roederer Brut Vintage Rosé ($75) 8 COMMANDMENTS OF PARTY THROWING The Dinner Party Download podcast has been our preferred source of entertaining inspiration since 2009. Now hosts Rico Gagliano and Brendan Francis Newnam have poured…

SEASON THE VEGETABLES LIKE MEAT Just because they’re raw doesn’t mean they have to be naked. Achatz dresses carrots and blanched green beans in a basic vinaigrette (olive oil, sherry vinegar, salt and pepper) to add dimension. BREAK OUT YOUR MANDOLIN Vary the chopping style— matchsticks, wedges, slices—for each component to add visual and textural interest. For the winter months, Achatz likes to shave pumpkin and squash into ribbons. EMBRACE THE FRUDITÉ “There’s only so much raw broccoli you can eat,” says the chef, who advocates for fruit on every crudité platter. He throws in peaches macerated with chamomile to balance out the savory. CHILL IN STYLE Plain old ice cubes will help keep your display crisp, but Achatz likes his ice to do more, so he adds flavor. At The Office he…

The Continental buffet table hasn’t fared too well in our era of chef-driven plating. But that didn’t stop 2012 Best New Chef Mario Carbone from making the dessert buffet a signature showpiece a The Grill (thegrillnewyork.com), half of the glittery revamp he and his partners have undertaken at the old Four Seasons restaurant in New York City. “I loved buffets as a kid, and I still love them now,” says the chef. Though Carbone’s retro theatrics are for effect only–diners don’t actually serve themselves–his buffet offers inspiration for your next party spread. 1 / Flowers make a great centerpiece…before dinner. “They not only give off scents that can conflict with food, but they block sight lines and make everyone feel like they’re talking to plants. That worked out for Moses but…