Food & Wine September 2017

WE MUST GO TO ANDALUCÍA!” came a booming voice over my phone late one night. “And we can’t forget the yin-tonics!” So began the happy journey of creating this special Spain issue with our guest editor, José Andrés: chef, restaurateur, raconteur, provocateur, gin and tonic connoisseur and, arguably, Spain’s greatest export. I’ve been hooked on Spain from that very first bite of tortilla at the Boqueria market as a backpacking 19-year-old. But it wasn’t until José came to the F&W offices and opened his black book—which was anything but little (see page 55)— that we realized how much there was still to uncover. It was all we could do to keep up with José’s endless stream of ideas and unyielding exuberance. Soon we had enough must-do, must-eat recommendations to fill a…

Whether you’re planning a dreamy trip or the perfect late-summer menu, all roads lead to Spain. Go to foodandwine.com/spain-2017 for our best recipes and intel from our favorite insider. Headed to Spain? José Andrés opened his impressive black book to help us put together this amazing issue. He’s sharing even more of his personal picks—from hotels to tapas crawls—online. José Andrés Go online to learn about our guest editor, the award-winning chef and humanitarian. Master the Classics Tortillas, paella, flan, fabada–we’ve got all the recipes you need to bring Spain back home. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JAVIER SALAS; NICOLE FRANZEN; JOHN KERNICK…

GO-TO NIGHT OUT Barack and I met José Andrés when we first came to Washington and to the White House. We learned about him through his phenomenal restaurants, which are among our very favorites in DC. I could sometimes sneak out with friends for dinner, and José’s restaurants were places of comfort, great food, good drinks and friendship. CRAZY FOR TAPAS Spain has so much incredible food. I like anything with jamón, cheese, olives, bread and olive oil. I could eat that forever. MOM KNOWS BEST My favorite dish growing up was my mom’s mac and cheese. She didn’t make it often, so when she did it was special. It was creamy, delicious, warm and cheesy...very, very cheesy. THINK GLOBALLY, EAT LOCALLY Traveling is so important. I always tell people, step outside your comfort zone and try…

THE SPAIN ISSUE SPANISH AMERICA THANKS TO PIONEERING CHEFS like our guest editor, José Andrés, Spanish cuisine has found devotees and disciples across the US. Consider one of the new guard: Justin Severino and his Pittsburgh tapas restaurant, Morcilla. Stepping into the funky Lawrenceville space is like beaming yourself to Barcelona. Gaudí inspires the cocktails—such as this pretty, rosé-powered Park Guell—and careful attention is given to housemade charcuterie. Read on for more Iberian cuisine boosters. THE SPANISH AMBASSADORS Meet four chefs diving deep into Spanish cooking on this side of the Atlantic. JOSÉ CHESA With a tapas place and churros shop in Portland, Oregon, the chef has been busy growing his mini Iberian empire. New to the mix is Chesa, a restaurant dedicated to his Aragonian and Andalusian heritage. chesapdx.com. PERFECTO ROCHER Modern Valencian may be…

JOSÉ URRUTIA The accessories whiz behind La Portegna, based out of southern Spain, is known for his sleek handbags (right). He swings from high- to lowbrow when he’s out on the town. HIGH DiverXO “Expect the unexpected at chef David Muñoz’s tasting menu restaurant in Tetuán. It’s full of exciting dishes, like coconut soup with macadamia nuts. Muñoz is like a cross between Ferran Adrià and Damien Hirst.” diverxo.com/en. LOW Fitz Burger “When I want to escape, I come to this burger counter. Bonus: It’s near the stylish El Viso neighborhood, full of cool houses.” facebook.com /Fitzburger. PATRICIA NICOLÁS “Whimsical” is the word to describe this Madrid native’s jewelry line (earrings above), beloved by celebrities like Sienna Miller. Here’s how she bookends a big night in her hometown. START Sushita “I love this new sushi place…

You know all about jamón ibérico, Spain’s legendary answer to Italian prosciutto. You know about the velvety texture of those cured pig legs and their importance in Spanish cuisine. And you also know how expensive jamón ibérico can be when you’re lucky enough to find it stateside. But as we speak, three entrepreneurial expats are producing the first American-raised Ibérico ham. Kurt Oriol of Georgia’s Iberian Pastures (iberianpastures.com) and Manuel Murga and Sergio Marsal of Acornseekers (acornseekers.com) in Texas saw the potential in their adopted homeland: lots of white oak trees filled with the exact type of acorns found in Spain, as well as the opportunity to avoid the costs and regulations of importing. “Why not bring the live animal, like the French do with grapevines in Napa Valley?” says…