Olive Magazine

welcome

If you’ve never sat at a counter in a restaurant, make that your restaurant resolution this month. This is where you’ll understand what it takes to be a chef and become, as Tony Naylor says, one of ‘the gang’. From sushi perfection at Maru and a deeply intimate experience at Evelyn’s Table to sharing plates at Eleanore you can watch with fascination, appreciate the skill being shown and, most importantly, chat with the pro making dinner (p83). The comfort of eating familiar food keeps us going through the winter months. So this issue we’ve reinvented some of our favourites using the best of November’s produce (p18). Carbonara is lifted with silky leeks, cubes of celeriac soak up the flavours in a curry sauce, and Rosie Birkett has amped up cauli cheese…

this month i’m...

listening Richard Godwin’s Friday cocktail mail-outs, complete with a recipe to make and a playlist to enjoy with your drink. Sign up at thespirits.substack.com. reading Entangled Life by Merlin Sheldrake (£10.99, Vintage) I’m learning all about fungi by dipping in and out of this book. Fungi can farm, network and figure out a route to a food supply that doesn’t waste time and energy – I’ll never look at a mushroom in the same way again. eating Swiss Golden Blond Chocolate Florentines, M&S Disastrously moreish and I’m sure they’re not meant to be eaten by the pack...…

your brand-new olive – our promise to you

Olive is brought to you by the same team as BBC Good Food, Britain’s leading food media brand. As you’ll see from Our Commitment on page 120, we’re committed to improving diversity and inclusivity, and work with a wide range of contributors to drive authentic change. There’s so much more to explore beyond the pages of your magazine, including recipes, award-winning podcasts and videos showcasing cooking skills and techniques on Olive magazine.com. Here’s what you can expect from us. our recipes work All our recipes are developed and thoroughly tested by experts, so you know they’ll work every time. sustainability It’s at the heart of everything we do. We try to help you cut down on food waste by suggesting ideas for using up any leftovers, and by celebrating and keeping you informed about…

colatura di alici

What is it? An Italian condiment made from fermented salted anchovies. It comes from the ancient Roman tradition of ageing pungent fish (garums) in wooden barrels (terzigni), and a little really does go a long way! How to use it? Just a few drops in pasta or dressings gives deep, rounded savouriness. Where to find it? Buy online at souschef.co.uk Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food. He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue, with his first recipe book set for release in spring 2022. Lamb cutlets, colatura di alici and tarragon and celeriac slaw 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY carrot 1 large, peeled and sliced into matchsticksceleriac ¼, peeled and sliced into matchstickslemon 1, zested…

social enterprise meets supper club

Sisterwoman is many things – a vegan supper club, reading group, recipe resource – but most notably, it’s a social enterprise for BAME communities. Founded by self-taught cook Safiya Robinson, she explains why there’s a need for a black-centred food community: “Most businesses are white-centred and it misses nuance, particularly in a country where black people are disproportionately affected by food-related illnesses. I’m of black American, Jamaican and English heritage, and I draw from all of these culinary traditions. There’s no distinct food scene that accurately depicts what it means to grow up black in Britain. My supper club serves mac ’n’ cheese, ital curry and plantain, plus more elevated dishes, such as jerk-braised aubergine or brown stew mushroom tortellini.” Safiya launched a 12-week Wellness Through Food programme in April, offering free…

kitchen shelf

Unearthed Pork Rillettes As demonstrated by our new effort less! series (p46), taking a few shortcuts isn’t a bad thing. This pork rillette is an instant starter with toast and a few cornichons. £2.69 (110g), Waitrose & Partners Farmison & Co Rich & Full-Bodied Ragu Some dishes require slow cooking to ensure depth of flavour. This ragu is great with polenta or pappardelle – simply warm it through. £7.95 (500g), farmison.com Spoon Granola Happy Gut Packed with 11 different grains, nuts, seeds and fruit, this high-fibre granola makes for a great breakfast with greek yogurt and poached fruit, or use it to make flapjacks. £3.99 (350g), Waitrose & Partners Selfridges Food Hall It’s a foodie’s happy place. New products include Tom Kerridge’s Black Garlic Ketchup (£7.49), which works in casseroles and gravy, too. The new natural wine…