EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
Food & Wine
Decanter

Decanter

October 2020

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

Country:
United Kingdom
Language:
English
Publisher:
TI-Media
Frequency:
Monthly
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12 Issues

in this issue

5 min.
month in wine

Big names join rush for Provence rosé Provence has seen a rush of vineyard deals in recent months, not to mention celebrity endorsements, which look set to further raise the profile of the region’s premium rosé wines. The Prats family, who formerly owned Château Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, have joined with French businessman Stéphane Courbit to buy Château d’Estoublon in Provence. It is the latest sign of Provence’s rising status in the wine world, and also of the growing interest in making higher-end rosé styles there. Built in the 17th century and spanning 300ha, with 18ha under vine, Château d’Estoublon is located in the Baux-de-Provence appellation. Jean-Quentin Prats told Decanter that the family wanted to return to its historical roots and ‘put a foot back in the Mediterranean’, but he also said an initial…

1 min.
in brief

Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter Soon-to-be-revised US dietary guidelines should cut the daily alcohol limit for men from two drinks to one, the same as for women, said the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee. In current guidance, one drink is five US fluid ounces (150ml) of wine at 12% alcohol. California’s Wine Institute said the Committee didn’t cite enough evidence to ‘reverse decades of guidance’ on drinking in moderation. Never mind oysters and caviar – pairing Champagne with a crunchy raw radish is one of life’s simple pleasures, says Didier Depond, president of the Delamotte and Salon houses, who grows them at home, having got the idea from respected oenologist and chemist, professor Jacques Puisais. Radishes’ saline,…

1 min.
letter of the month

Cru bourgeois brain ache I’m a self-confessed Bordeaux lover, so eagerly tucked into the cru bourgeois article in your September issue. To me, the category has always been a signpost towards a good claret that mostly doesn’t enter the price bracket of the cru classé brigade. A good buy. Previous classifications left me – and I imagine most of us – ignoring the suffixes that follow the cru bourgeois status and just enjoying the wine. Thank goodness things have been cleared up with the 2020 classification! So... just to clarify: cru bourgeois can be exceptionnel, supérieur or just straightforward cru bourgeois. But won’t include the top cru bourgeois wines (Potensac, for instance) that most of us might recognise – always wise to leave your best players out to let others look…

6 min.
your letters

Corkage, another view I write in response to the recent letters on the subject of BYO and restaurant wine prices. No one seems to be putting the restaurateur’s viewpoint. I have worked in the trade all my working life, and have bought, sold and audited for all types of restaurant business. I now sell wine into the trade, and advise customers on their selling prices and therefore mark-up. The ‘outrageous’ mark-up mentioned last month by Mr G Sharp is very easily explained. Running a restaurant is a very costly business, taking into account mortgage or rent, insurance, staffing costs, the cost of goods to be sold often coming from the other side of the world, and the burden that red tape adds to the workload and costs. Taking the typical mark-up mentioned…

3 min.
andrew jefford

Language is a problem.’ So said black wine writer Julia Coney during a 54-minute Instagram video post recorded on 3 June, at the height of the Black Lives Matter protests which followed the murder of George Floyd in Minneapolis. She said, of course, much else: her despair at the lack of diversity in the wine world, and her anger at its patronising attitudes to black workers, was palpable. Wine, ethnically speaking, remains exclusive, not inclusive. A quick glance around the room at the average wine tasting, wine education class and wine auction will show that the audience rarely resembles the wider population. If there is such a thing as ‘the wine conscience’, it probably needs examining. Language is indeed a part of this problem. I’m not thinking of the tired gender…

7 min.
weekday wines

Mirabeau, La Folie, Vin de France, Southeast France 91 £14.99 Waitrose A delicate sparkling made by the Charmat method (the same as Prosecco) to retain fresh red fruit flavours alongside zesty citrus. Made from Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache and Colombard grown in Provence and the Luberon, it has crisp acidity and a satisfyingly long finish. A great aperitif. GH Alcohol 11.5% Yangarra, Estate Roussanne, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2018 91 O £16.99 All About Wine Poised aromas of waxy yellow fruit open to a more expressive palate. It’s broad and complex with a yeasty mouthfeel, layers of dried peach, apricot and hay, smoky minerals and a creamy finish. The acidity just balances the plush fruit and it should age into a savoury beauty. TG Alc 13% Feudo Antico, Passerina, Tullum, Abruzzo, Italy 2019 90 £12.95 Alliance Wine Tullum is…