welcome.
I want to talk about a trio of sidelined foods: the mussel, the gooseberry – and burnt stuff. First of all, it's June, which means the gooseberry is shimmying into the sunlight. So often dismissed as too tart to be palatable, this glorious fruit needs only the right recipes, savoury and sweet, to put it on a culinary pedestal. And yes, you can find those recipes on p24. While I'm in campaigning mode, my next shout-out is for cover star and understudy of the seafood world, the mussel. It's as good for the environment as it is for the purse, so three cheers for the mussel manifesto on p60, plus our food team's recipes – good prompts to put these wonderful bivalves on your weekly shopping list. And now on…