National Geographic Traveller (UK) January - February 2023

Daniel Stables The veil between this world and the next feels thin on the Isle of Man, where fairy houses hide in glens and folklore infuses the work of chefs, brewers and distillers. Just as magical are foraging forays in the bountiful Manx countryside. ISLE OF MAN P.48 Carolyn Boyd I wasn’t sure what to expect from Bayonne, having last visited 20 years ago. It had me at ‘the French capital of chocolate’, but I also loved the architecture, shops and restaurants — and the people that run them. For a weekend away, it’s hard to beat. BAYONNE P.54 Justin Meneguzzi In New Zealand, it’s not just the mountains calling out to adventurers — it’s also the rivers, woods and caves. Locals always find new ways to fly between trees…

ISSUE 109, JAN/FEB 2023 New Zealand is one of those destinations that never fails to capture the imagination. A perennial favourite in our annual Reader Awards, this year you voted it the ‘best long-haul country’. Understandably, then, it’s the Māori culture, exquisite wines and unique wildlife and landscapes — from the mountains of the South Island to the North Island’s otherworldly geothermal sites — that beckon travellers to a nation with a keen sense of its own distinct identity. Add to this the fact that the pandemic put tourism on hold for over two years, with a staggered reopening in 2022, and New Zealand’s allure is surely at an all-time high. Our cover story this issue focuses on the wild side of this remarkable country — known as Aotearoa (‘the…

WHAT’S NEW • FOOD • ON THE TRAIL • WHERE TO STAY • FAMILY • INSIDE GUIDE • STAY AT HOME • BOOKS SNAPSHOT Pablo Valladares, Galápagos Islands After being forced to spend the initial phase of the pandemic on the Ecuadorian mainland, guide Pablo Valladares returned home to Isabela Island, in the western part of the Galápagos, in September 2020. Without any visitors, he spent his time teaching local kids how to surf, working on his garden and trading with other islanders. When we met in October that year, I was his first guest in eight months. “The city wasn’t for me,” he said of Guayaquil. “Here, I can listen to the ocean and watch the sunrise in the most natural place.” JAMIE LAFFERTY • PHOTOGRAPHER @megaheid jamielafferty.com  @travel_journo…

Known for its big cats, the Maasai Mara National Reserve is arguably the best place on the planet to see cheetahs in the wild. Shingo, also known as Mama Sita, is an incredible cheetah who’s raised six cubs to adulthood — atruly phenomenal feat, considering the high number of predators in the area and the species’ low ranking in the predatory hierarchy. A female cheetah raises her cubs alone; while she hides them away when they’re young, at some point she must take them along as she roams the savannah, hunting while protecting them from lions, hyenas and leopards. That’s no easy task, considering the youngsters’ propensity for mischief. ELLIOTT NEEP • PHOTOGRAPHER elliottneep.co.uk @elliottneep…

Britain’s oldest, longest and most complete defensive walls encircle Chester: a perimeter of ramparts dating back 2,000 years. But Chester isn’t confined to history — Cheshire’s county town excels at finding ways to explore its past, and its historic core is now seeing the fruits of a £72m regeneration fund. As well as a major revamp of the Northgate bus station, the headline development is Chester Market, which hosts 39 stalls in an oak-beamed food court, including established vendors, beloved local brands and successful pop-ups in new permanent homes. Indulge in dairy and vegan confections from Cheshire Farm Ice Cream; site-roasted coffee from Bean & Cole; French patisserie from Pastry Pédaleur; and street food from the likes of Big Lola’s Taqueria and Guroma — plus, designer pet treats, clothing and…

Go wild in Romania’s Ţarcu Mountains The Kent countryside isn’t the only place to have seen the reintroduction of European bison in recent months. A herd of the majestic beasts, which last roamed here in 1919, have been brought back to Romania’s Țarcu Mountains range as part of a major rewilding project. Much Better Adventures, along with conservationists from WWF, runs four-day treks through the Carpathian Forest, with accommodation in wilderness cabins and safari-style camps. Plus, the chance to stop off for swims in mountain lakes and rivers. From £663. muchbetteradventures.com Switch off in South Devon Take up the lotus position at Gaia House, a Buddhist mindfulness retreat in the hills near Newton Abbot. Once cocooned inside this Grade II-listed building, you can unplug from emails, notifications and small talk…