National Geographic Traveller (UK) September 2022

Jacqui Agate Memphis is almost synonymous with barbecue and chicken wings, but a fresh crop of plant-based restaurants is energising the city’s food scene, from ‘veganised’ versions of meaty classics to posh fine dining menus that put vegetables at the fore. MEMPHIS P.52 Joe Sills In Botswana, our conservation group was suddenly overtaken by a thunderstorm. As the rains poured down, we cursed Toto and sang their song. We truly felt like a team, brought together by our shared work and long days spent in the bush. BOTSWANA P.88 Sarah Marshall On each of the four occasions I’ve visited the Pantanal, I’ve been struck by the sense of lost world wilderness that still exists — largely thanks to the efforts of conservationists. It truly is one of the South American…

There are few spots in the Mediterranean quite as dazzling as Sardinia. Italy’s second-largest island offers over 1,000 miles of spectacular shoreline where it’s hard to believe just how turquoise the sea is, how soft the sand is and how dramatically serpentine the coast is. And while Sardinia may be one of the Mediterranean’s best-known beach destinations, Italy isn’t really a nation celebrated for its coast. And more’s the pity, as there’s so much of it, unfurling in such a wild, thrilling and varied way. In addition to the country’s 400-plus islands, the mainland itself has almost 5,000 miles of coast to explore — with beaches, in many cases, rarely the main draw. So, in our cover story this issue (p.66), our focus on the Italian coastline includes an inside…

NTIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER Which destinations have you been daydreaming about? Is there a book, TV show or podcast that’s had you itching to travel? Has a tour operator impressed you with its customer service? Our awards seek to reward the very best in the travel business, so tell us who’s got your vote and you could win one of 24 incredible prizes. Head online to have your say, but don’t delay, as voting closes on 31 August. Vote today at nationalgeographic.co.uk/reader-awards THE PRIZES LAST CHANCE TO ENTER VOTE ONLINE TO WIN! A SEVEN-NIGHT HOLIDAY FOR TWO AT THE LANDINGS RESORT AND SPA, SAINT LUCIA Unwind in style at The Landings Resort and Spa, enjoying the first-class service and facilities this allvilla-suite resort has to offer. landingsstlucia.com A SIX-NIGHT RAIL ADVENTURE…

Until her recent retirement at the age of 100, Betty was the oldest living park ranger in the US National Park Service. She gave bi-weekly lectures at the Rosie the Riveter National Historic Park in Richmond, California, telling the story of the Bay Area’s pioneering role in desegregation. After one of her lectures, Betty agreed to be photographed. At first, she wanted to keep her trademark sunglasses on, then she relented and proceeded to look straight into the lens for the entire shoot. Afterwards, I watched her climb a flight of stairs faster than I could, which really gave me pause. FREDERIC ARANDA • PHOTOGRAPHER fredericaranda.com @fredericaranda One of the Single Image winners of Portrait of Humanity™ 2022/1854 Media. 1854.photography…

Concealed within lush tropical jungle about seven hours’ drive north of Guatemala City, Semuc Champey is one of the great natural wonders of Guatemala. Here, the churning waters of the River Cabahón plunge under a 980ft-long natural limestone bridge, which is topped with vivid turquoise pools. The name Semuc Champey comes from the Q’eqchi’Maya language and means ‘where the river hides under the Earth’. Carrying my camera gear uphill to this viewpoint for 45 minutes through thick, humid jungle made for a sweaty hike, but it was worth it for the sightings of howler monkeys and a toucan en route — and for this bird’s-eye view of the landscape.Afterwards, I headed down to reward my efforts with a refreshing dip in the clear water. BELLA FALK • PHOTOGRAPHER passportandpixels.com @passportandpixels…

TIRED OF THE TUBE? Hop on a River Bus — services run all the way to Greenwich, via Westminster and the Tower of London. tfl.gov.uk Nearly 10 years after development began, the transformation of Battersea Power Station is entering its final phases. Turning the Grade II*-listed icon into a vibrant neighbourhood beside the Thames has been a long and expensive ride — costing £9bn, in fact — and there’s even been two, shiny new Tube stations (at Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station) to link the area up to central London. Big-name architects, such as Frank Gehry and Norman Foster, were also tasked with designing swathes of the development. Much of the area’s already open, with riverside bistros and slick wine bars set beneath the railway arches, but the crowning…