ZINIO logo
Professional Photography

Professional Photography July 2016

Each issue celebrates world-leading professionals and their images through in-depth interviews and extensive photographic portfolios. With 4 issues in a 1 year subscription, you can enjoy inspirational galleries from established and emerging names in photography – as well as keeping up with news and reviews of the latest pro kit, exhibitions and books.

Read More
United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd

in this issue

2 min.
letter from the editor

We were spoiled for choice for covers this month: Miles Aldridge or Terence Donovan. Sure, everyone loves a monochrome master, but it was with glee that we secured the image we did. It’s a bold bonanza and it’s refreshing to be recognising modern-day success of this scale. Take a read of our interview with Aldridge on page 16 to gain a bit more insight into the motivations behind his unique approach to photography. It’s a relatively recent development in photography that colour has been achievable, accurate and accessible. And it’s even more recent that it’s become accepted as an equal to monochrome, rather than merely the domain of commercial photographers. That’s a transition Aldridge has experienced first-hand. He saw a gap in the market for colour and capitalised on it to…

2 min.

THIS MONTH’S FEATURED PROS Just some of the photographers, industry experts and writers that feature in this issue… MILES ALDRIDGE PAGE 16 The fashion photographer reveals the story behind his cinematic images, which explore ideas of lust and excess through the use of lurid colours. HARRY GRUYAERT PAGE 28 The Magnum photographer recalls how he shot the 1982 Tour de France from the back of a moving motorcycle, and how different it all is today. MATT BLACK PAGE 42 The documentary photographer plots an unflinching journey through impoverished communities as they strive for the American Dream. CHERYL NEWMAN PAGE 58 The former photography director of The Daily Telegraph shares her views on the challenges faced by women working in the photography industry. HUNTER BARNES PAGE 70 The documentary photographer shows us around his Oregon retreat, where he creates silver gelatin prints of his intimate, personal portraits. DOUGLAS…

3 min.
photographers need to act as a collective

‘Exposure’ means you’re an unpaid whore, and if you think otherwise, you are naïve. I recently photographed an event. Soon after, and very late at night, I received a ‘punchy’ little email saying, ‘Please send images immediately, two big organisations need them tonight for publication’. I replied, ‘I presume said organisations would like to licence the images, for reasonable payment, as per industry standards?’ The reply was nothing if not telling… ‘Be like that, then; there are plenty of people offering images from the event for free. Think about the exposure. Bye!’ Or words to that effect. Now, one of these organisations was a massive (not to be overstated) US Government department which would have, I presume, a modicum of budget. But that in itself was not the issue – nobody pays for…

1 min.
story _ behind _ stuart _ franklin

This is an image that changed everything because, for me, it crystallised the spirit of revolt. The 1989 uprising in Tiananmen Square was one of the most moving events I’ve witnessed. It was a tragedy to see unarmed young people shot down in cold blood. It was a movement for freedom of expression, for basic rights, and against the outrage of official corruption. It ended badly, a stain on the reputation of a great country. The facts should not be denied, but discussed, so that people can move on. “ I want this photograph to be available to people for whom this is an important memory. It symbolises the courage of the time. ”Stuart Franklin A lot of things were misreported on both sides. A lot of outside actors were involved that…

4 min.
“marilyn really made these pictures... i just responded to her”

In late 1961, when Lookmagazine was preparing to celebrate its 25th anniversary, plans were being made for a landmark issue. Contributions by major figures including John F Kennedy were arranged, plus celebrity photo shoots. With a circulation of more than seven million, this picture-led title could attract the biggest stars. Top of the wish list was Marilyn Monroe. I suggested photographing her on a bed, but she did the rest of it. The photographer chosen for this dream assignment was 27-year-old Canadian Douglas Kirkland. Prior to joining the staff of Lookthe previous year, he had worked for several newspapers and magazines and spent a four-month period assisting Irving Penn. At Look, he quickly developed a reputation for creating strong images of major female stars including Elizabeth Taylor and Judy Garland. Now he…

9 min.
all i want

On the face of it, Aldridge’s cinematic, seductive images of glamorous women tick all the boxes expected of high-fashion fiction. But then you realise something’s not quite right. Often placed in domestic scenes, there’s something sinister in the vacant faces, the glamorised violence. Aldridge’s career was launched during the anti-consumerist grunge movement. The gloss, the lurid colour; is this just a package to make the bitter reality of consumerism more palatable? The irony of this message being sent from fashion’s heart isn’t lost on Aldridge. The narrative of discontent is, he says, an honest report. The British photographer has shot for everyone from Armani to YSL, featured prolifically in magazines including Vogue Italia, with whom he’s been collaborating for 20 years. His immersion in this world continued with a 17-year marriage to…