Conde Nast Traveler December 2017

Condé Nast Traveler magazine is filled with the travel secrets of celebrated writers and sophisticated travelers. Each monthly issue features breathtaking destinations, including the finest art, architecture, fashion, culture, cuisine, lodgings, and shopping. With Condé Nast Traveler as your guide, you'll discover the best islands, cities, spas, castles, and cruises.

United States
Conde Nast US
8 期号


behind the scenes

Our Men in the Médoc At Luxury Editor Matt Hranek’s 50th birthday party at Château Cos d’Estournel in France’s Médoc region (page 82), longtime friends, collaborators, and Traveler contributing photographers Stephen Lewis, Dewey Nicks, and Oddur Thorisson (above, from left)—plus Hranek himself—all covered the three-day affair with their distinct photographic styles. Daphne Beal The novelist chronicled Uzbekistan’s storied past and dynamic present, p. 56. What’s always in your carry-on? A pine-needle sachet my friend made for me. It feels homey. What’s your travel philosophy? Go with an itinerary, but be prepared to change course. And once you’re there, ask people, not the Internet. What city do you love? I adore the architecture in Mexico City, especially the clean lines and gold details of the Luis Barragán House and Studio. Mobolaji Dawodu The GQ Style Fashion Director dressed São Paulo’s creative class…

ask the editors

Corey Sabourin, Copy Director “Medellín, Colombia. There are direct flights from New York, and it’s just one hour behind. I took the hallucinatory funicular over hillside barrios to the lush Arví nature park, then spent several hours in the newly expanded Modern Art Museum of Medellín.” Pilar Guzmán, Editor in Chief “I went to my cousin’s wedding for a long weekend in Pirque, just outside of Santiago, Chile, and it was absolutely worth it. If you have a long enough overnight flight where you can actually sleep more than four hours, then you’re golden once you hit the ground.” Paul Brady, Articles Editor “I once flew from New York to Paris for a two-night stay, after scoring a $297 ticket during a Delta flash sale. I had time for oysters in Montmartre, a trip to…

editors’ picks

TIME TO REDO YOUR BUCKET LIST It used to be that simply checking into a Four Seasons signaled the height of luxury. Now it’s staying at eight of them on one vacation. Four Seasons Private Jet has launched these megatrips on which you zip between continents on a 757 decked out with lie-flat seats, cashmere blankets, and Bose headsets. So I, along with 50 or so other supertravelers, was off on a nine-city, 19-day food-focused itinerary called Culinary Discoveries that was designed in collaboration with Noma chef René Redzepi: We met with sushi chef Jiro Ono in Tokyo, took a Thai cooking class in Chiang Mai, and sampled street food in Mumbai. In Chianti, we visited the butcher shop Antica Macelleria Cecchini, where owner Dario Cecchini quoted Dante while grilling slabs…

experience makers

“Alex, I know you don’t love surprises,” said our guide, Humphrey Gumpo, “but remember we talked about keeping an open mind and an open heart?” Coming from just about anyone else, I might have run interference as he tried to get my 50-year-old big sister—who once sobbed inconsolably at her seventh birthday party when the staff at Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlour broke out in its (“Surprise!”) riotous rendition of “Happy Birthday”—to change her mind about an impromptu overnight stay in the otherworldly Makgadikgadi salt pans of Botswana. The three of us had been together for a week, which in travel terms is more or less binding for life. We had fallen into an easy rhythm, almost like three siblings, taking our same places at the dinner table each night and…

a grand reformation

In the past decade, Puglia’s masserie, the simple farm estates turned stylish hotels, have been credited with luring travelers from the region’s beaches and bringing them inland. The 17th-century Castello di Ugento, which reopened last month, borrowed the masserie’s historic conversion concept but cranked the luxury factor up a notch. Like so many of the best small hotels, Castello di Ugento, a 40-minute drive from Lecce through olive groves and vineyards, by definition, is a labor of love—and in this case the product of a major life change. Four years ago, the former Pepsi CEO Massimo Fasanella d’Amore di Ruffano was tired of the punishing pace of international business, and decided, along with his partner, Diana Bianchi, to start a new project— reviving his family’s 374-year-old castle, which had gone…

putting down roots in shanghai

Aman has earned its cultlike following not through flashy ad campaigns or loyalty reward programs (it does neither) but by zealously sticking to a pretty simple formula: insanely attentive service and clean, minimal design. After opening 30 properties in as many years, the luxe hotel brand has it down, which is why we were a little surprised by the extra-long lead time of Amanyangyun, its newest property, opening this month, 45 minutes from Shanghai’s city center. In 2009, Aman began working with Chinese philanthropist Ma Dadong to relocate 10,000 ancient camphor trees (some are over 1,000 years old!) and 50 granite-and-fir Ming and Qing dynasty homes that were in danger of being demolished. The trees and dwellings were moved 500 miles from Jiangxi Province to Shanghai, and then the homes…