Conde Nast Traveler Volume VIII, 2018

Condé Nast Traveler magazine is filled with the travel secrets of celebrated writers and sophisticated travelers. Each monthly issue features breathtaking destinations, including the finest art, architecture, fashion, culture, cuisine, lodgings, and shopping. With Condé Nast Traveler as your guide, you'll discover the best islands, cities, spas, castles, and cruises.

United States
Conde Nast US
8 期号


how we plotted our southeast asia issue

We began, as we often do, with the fundamental paradox—and perennial pain point—of traveling to this part of the world, which goes something like: I want to hit the major sites across many countries, but I also want to go deep. Southeast Asia, which we’re defining as the region south of China and north of Australia, east of India and west of Papua New Guinea, represents for the adventurous traveler a classic battle between ambition and logistics (so many indirect-flight routes can be a drag); between planning for bucket-list bragging rights (Angkor Wat at sunrise) and leaving room for those can’t-script-it moments, like drinking moonshine and dancing with Laotian villagers. So we narrowed the universe by organizing our intel around two popular travel hubs: Singapore and Bangkok. The idea was…

behind the scenes

Distilling the essence of such a diverse region into a single issue was as tough as it sounds. So we fanned out, from Laos to Borneo (that’s our contributing photographer Tom Parker and Articles Editor Paul Brady, above, captured by drone), to come up with ways of going deeper into classic destinations like Bangkok and Singapore, and show why tack-on visits to off-the-grid places like the Mergui Archipelago are not only completely doable but almost compulsory. We kept in mind our perennial fear of ruining a place with overexposure (à la the recent indefinite closure of Thailand’s Maya Bay, which the film The Beach popularized into an ecological disaster) and balanced it with a spotlight on the hospitality mavericks who are fighting tooth and nail to get development right for…

what’s the biggest misconception about travel to southeast asia?

“Travelers are often nervous of getting ripped off, and therefore miss out on some experiences. They’re wary of tuk-tuk drivers, as they think they’re going to get taken to ‘his uncle’s jewelry store’—and they might! But I’ve also had drivers take me to their aunt’s restaurant for the best noodles I’ve ever eaten; their brother’s tailor shop, where I got a suit jacket made; and to a cousin’s wedding, which was a hell of a party. If you don’t trust in a little destiny, you might miss out on the adventure.” Andrea Ross, Wild Frontiers “Don’t try and see it all. It’s better to make return trips than to squeeze Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia into a single two-week itinerary. Give yourself three to four nights in each area. And know…

coming full circle

I was reminiscing recently with my old friend Bobby Chinn, a chef and TV food personality whom I first met 22 years ago at the restaurant La Camargue in Ho Chi Minh City, while on an assignment for Fodor’s. Bobby, the chef there, had just moved from San Francisco to learn how to cook Vietnamese food, which was then under-recognized in the U.S. and Europe. (He later went on to open destination restaurants in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City during Vietnam’s dizzying developmental sprint.) We became fast friends and co-conspirators, mutually emboldened in our discovery—on motorbikes, without cell phones or Internet, and mostly through food—of a country that had, like Cuba, been preserved as though in amber by political isolation. In 1996, there were few European and American tourists—other than…


Singaporeans Take Food Very Seriously If you want to get some locals riled up, ask them where you can find the best chili crab on the island (without a doubt it’s No Signboard Seafood in Geylang). In fact, the food scene is so major here that next year the Oscars of the restaurant industry, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, will be held in Singapore—the first Asian city ever to host the ceremony. There are three restaurants we’d recommend booking in advance: Odette, in the National Gallery, for French; Candlenut, the first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant; and Wild Rocket, for its omakase menu and modern riff on hokkien mee. THE ROOM TO BOOK The Duxton Duplex Suite at Six Senses Duxton has a lounge area on the first level and a bedroom and en…

loving and leaving in cambodia

“Imogene, you are alone in a 13th-century temple…Imogene, a beautiful daybed with crisp linens and a masseuse waiting for you.” It takes me an embarrassingly long minute to realize the Frenchman is telling me to imagine my surroundings, but only seconds to grasp that it’s his favorite way to start a sentence. It’s late August and I’m in steamy Siem Reap—the bustling, riverside, springboard city for exploring Cambodia’s Angkor temples—with my husband, Alex, and our two children. We’re with hotelier Thierry Teyssier as his guinea pig guests at what will be the second stop for his new nomadic hotel concept, 700,000 Heures. (The inaugural location for the endeavor, named for the number of hours in an average life, was Salento, Italy, in September; Lençóis, Brazil, is on deck for next June.)…