Cook's Country June/July 2020

Cook's Country magazine is dedicated to honest-to-goodness American home cooking, offering quick, easy and satisfying meals that don't take hours to put on the table. Every recipe we publish has been tested and retested 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will work the first time and every time you make it. And each issue of Cook's Country is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page.

United States
Boston Common Press, LP
6 期号


letter from the editor

WHEN I WAS growing up, I often spent a couple of weeks during the summer with my grandparents, who lived in a small New England town with white clapboard houses and old brick civic buildings and a beautiful little Carnegie library, where my grandmother was head librarian. They both grew up in remote rural areas, farm kids, so they ate seasonally and locally as a matter of habit and necessity, not as a matter of choice. Berries came around in the summer, and if you didn’t have the foresight to put them in jars or freeze them, those were the only berries you’d see all year. Gram would sometimes take us into the woods to pick raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries. She’d tell us it was for fun, which it was, but…

cook’s country

Chief Executive Officer David Nussbaum Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop Editor in Chief Tucker Shaw Executive Managing Editor Todd Meier Executive Food Editor Bryan Roof Deputy Editor Scott Kathan Deputy Food Editor Morgan Bolling Senior Editor Cecelia Jenkins Associate Editor Matthew Fairman Test Cooks Mark Huxsoll, Amanda Luchtel, Jessica Rudolph Photo Team Manager Alli Berkey Lead Test Cook, Photo Team Eric Haessler Assistant Test Cooks, Photo Team Hannah Fenton, Jacqueline Gochenouer, Gina McCreadie, Christa West Copy Editors Christine Campbell, April Poole, Rachel Schowalter Managing Editor, Web Mari Levine Digital Content Producer Danielle Lapierre Contributing Editor Eva Katz Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams Hosts & Executive Editors, Television Bridget Lancaster, Julia Collin Davison Executive Editors, Tastings & Testings Hannah Crowley, Lisa McManus Senior Editors, Tastings & Testings Lauren Savoie, Kate Shannon Associate Editor, Tastings & Testings Miye Bromberg Assistant Editors, Tastings & Testings Chase Brightwell, Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, Carolyn Grillo Creative Director John Torres Photography…

twice the tomato?

My tube of tomato paste says that it is “double concentrated.” Should I use only half the amount called for in recipes? –Norma Dudley, Lynnwood, Wash. Of the tomato pastes sold in American supermarkets, most tubed pastes are made in Italy and most canned pastes are made in the United States. The term “double concentrated” refers to an Italian manufacturing method that differs from the method used to make canned pastes but yields essentially the same product (and concentration). In Italy, manufacturers heat ground tomatoes to a lower temperature, and the resulting tomato paste undergoes a longer evaporation period (hence “double concentrated”). In the United States, manufacturers heat the tomatoes to a higher temperature and evaporate them for a shorter time—two different ways to arrive at the same place. In recipes, double-concentrated…

biased thinking

Some of your recipes call for slicing foods such as carrots and scallions on the bias. What does that mean? –Ted Bachmann, St. Augustine, Fla. Foods cut on the bias are cut on the diagonal. Picture yourself slicing a peeled carrot into rounds. Instead of cutting perpendicularly to the length of the carrot to create rounds, or “coins,” you rotate either the knife or the carrot about 45 degrees to cut on the diagonal, producing elongated ovals with more surface area. This type of cut is typical with longer foods such as carrots, baguettes, scallions, cucumbers, asparagus, zucchini, and summer squash. You can take this concept even further by angling the plane of your knife so that your cutting strokes hit the cutting board on the diagonal. THE BOTTOM LINE: Slicing foods on the…

dish dilemma

What’s the difference between a baking pan and a baking dish? –Emily Muldoon, Andover, Mass. When we call for a baking pan in our recipes, we’re referring to a metal pan, ideally one with straight sides and crisp corners that will give well-defined, professional-looking edges to baked goods. Our favorite 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan, from Williams Sonoma, is nonstick and has a gold color that produces perfectly browned baked goods (an 8-inch square version is also available). The only downside to this pan is that the nonstick coating can scratch and that it’s ovensafe only up to 450 degrees (it’s not broiler-safe). Baking dishes, on the other hand, are those made of either tempered glass or ceramic, with rounded corners to make it easy to scoop out soupy desserts and casseroles.…

season it

Can I use unseasoned rice vinegar in a recipe that calls for seasoned rice vinegar? –Morgan Affleck, Arvada, Colo. Rice vinegar is made from steamed rice. Also called rice wine vinegar (not to be confused with rice wine), it has a mild acidity and gentle sweetness. It is available both seasoned and unseasoned. Because the seasoned version contains added salt and sugar, we usually call for the unseasoned kind so that we can control the seasoning in a dish. That said, through testing we came up with a way to add “seasoning” to convert plain rice vinegar into a facsimile of the seasoned version. HOMEMADE SEASONED RICE VINEGAR Makes ½ cup Table salt dissolves most readily here, but if all you have is kosher salt, increase the amount to 2 tablespoons. ½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar¼ cup…