Saveur

Saveur April 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

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国家:
United States
语言:
English
出版商:
Bonnier Corporation
出版周期:
Quarterly
HK$38.75
HK$155.24
6 期号

本期

25
a walk in wordsworth country

IT CALLS TO MIND UNREAL PLACES: Tolkien’s Middle Earth, innumerable iterations of fairyland. It is unlike anywhere I’ve ever seen—and, more to the point, unlike any place I’ve ever felt. I know nowhere quite so lushly green, so exquisitely gentle here, and craggily forbidding there. It had been more than a decade since I’d visited England’s Lake District, just south of the Scottish border, and even to imagine being back there without my husband, Frank, who died in 2010 of a rare form of cancer, was for a long time not possible. But last year, I felt ready. If England were a play, the climate would be a main character. Not as predictable as its reputation, it is capricious, and its machinations frequently drive the plot. The Monday afternoon I alit from…

2
tastes that travel

Hainan chicken rice is not a love-at-first-sight affair. Whitish, wobbly, skinon, bone-in, a cleaver-hacked bird, slicked in poaching juices and draped over some pedestrian-looking rice. Decidedly not a dish to eat with your eyes. Happily, that’s what we have mouths for. I first encountered it at the Maxwell Food Centre in Singapore, where fiercely debating which hawker stall makes the best chicken rice is something of a national pastime. Here, the curious visitor is subjected to endless impassioned (and contradictory) advice about where to taste the finest examples of the form. My jaundiced, jet-lagged initial assessment: I flew all that way for this? Then I took a bite. It was remarkable in its clarity of flavor and simple satisfaction, a sustained and deeply comforting note of unadulterated chickenness. A few more bites…

28
on a clear day you can see africa

Seen from the sky—which is to say, observed on the in-flight video map during our final approach—the island appears as a triangularish football being punted toward the Maghreb by Italy’s boot. It’s a pixelated reflection of Sicilian identity itself, which hovers midway between North African and European. That intersection is what brought me here. I’ve come in search of a particular idea, a local expression, a secret password into this place’s soul: mal d’Africa. The mal refers to heartsickness, as in the feeling of missing Africa. For Sicilians, mal d’Africa is a kind of phantom continent syndrome, a sense of nostalgia for a lost homeland, a homesick longing for the landmass next-door that played such an important role in shaping their way of life. We all have it in some way,…

8
from estoril with love

I don’t order dry martinis anywhere except in Estoril. Usually, I like my gin wet. But sitting in a low antique chair at the wood-paneled Spy’s Bar in the Hotel Palácio, nothing but a dry gin martini will do. The echoing clatter of heels on marble drifts in from the hotel’s double-height lobby, and there’s never quite enough chatter to drown out the soft music. In daylight, the gleaming green and blue of the garden and pool blink through long windows into the dim bar, lined with elegantly worn satin upholstery, and smoky mirrors catch the light at night. When it rains, as it does in winter, you can stare out at the dappled pool with underwater lights changing colors for no one. Waiters in white jackets carry platters of hors…

1
lunch on tatooine

After two days of driving in the desert, my friend and I pulled off a sandy, unpaved road near Nefta, a small town in western Tunisia. There, rising above the dunes, was an otherworldly-looking village that I had come here expressly to see. For lifelong Star Wars fans like me, the area around Nefta is something of a mecca; George Lucas filmed scenes of the planet Tatooine, Luke Skywalker’s childhood home, in its surrounding dunes and salt flats. Many of the sets from the original movie still stand, the oldest dating to 1976. Unsure of what I might find, I poked my head into one of the buildings. Inside, to my surprise, Bedouin men sat stoking a small fire. They were preparing a meal for themselves and invited us curious travelers…

17
flight of the wenchang chicken

An old traveler’s adage: The more ramshackle the restaurant, the more soulful and satisfying the food find. So here I am at a spot in Wenchang, China, perched along the canal and facing Three Corners Street, with rickety tables, pink plastic lawn chairs, and tarps strung overhead that shade from the fierce sun. Several older men in flip-flops just sit here, for no reason other than it’s midafternoon on Hainan Island, and the air is so sweltering and sticky the smart thing is to remain motionless until sundown. This restaurant specializes in Wenchang chicken, the hometown specialty, and it is called, fittingly, Wenchang Chicken Restaurant. The 63-year-old owner, Sung Shen Mei, tells me it has operated continuously here since 1927. His grandparents, he says, were the first to make a living…