Saveur August - September 2014

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号



INDIA, HOME TO TOWERING snow-covered ranges in the north, deserts in its center, and a network of tropical waterways lacing through the south, is the birthplace of dozens of cuisines. India's food reflects its geographical variation—the north eats wheat, the south consumes rice, and the coasts thrive on coconut milk and fish—as well as its religious diversity. Muslims may eat beef, but most Hindus would never kill a cow; Parsis, heirs to a Persian ancestry, pair meats with sweet, dried fruits, while the Assamese, descended from Tibetans and Burmese, favor pungent, fermented flavors. Everywhere in India, however, there is one common element: the masterful use of spices. Indians know when to cook spices whole, flash-frying them in blistering oil to release caramelized aromas. They know when to roast spices to bring…

karipatta chutney

(Curry Leaf Chutney) makes 3/4 cup This fragrant sauce (pictured on page 44) from chef Raghavan Iyer is great with dosas (South Indian fermented lentil and rice crêpes; see page 72 for recipe). To make it, heat a 10″ skillet over medium-high. Cook 1 tbsp. sesame seeds until toasted, 1–2 minutes; transfer to a blender. Add 2 cups fresh curry leaves, 1/2 cup water, 1 tbsp. grated jaggery or brown sugar, 1/2 tsp. tamarind paste (see “Making Tamarind Paste,” at right), one 1″-piece peeled and thinly sliced ginger, and salt; purée until smooth.…

assam & beyond

Like many remote places we visited in the making of this issue, the northeast is best navigated with the help of a local guide. Pradip Chettry, from Kensington Tours (, is one of the best. Make GUWAHATI your base in the region. STAY at the modest Kiranshree Portico hotel ( Drive to VISIT elephants and greater one-horned rhinoceroses at the Kaziranga National Park (, a wildlife sanctuary founded in 1905. Eating in Guwahati I was born in Assam and love teaching people about the diverse flavors of the northeast, starting in Guwahati, where I eat ASSAMESE cuisine like khorika, barbecued fish, pork, or vegetable skewers known as “stick barbecue,” at Khorika Restaurant on GS Road, or baanhgajor lagot gahori, pork with bamboo shoots, at Maihang at Shanti Palace. Namsing, opposite Commerce College,…

soul of the palace

Dignified and animated, my friend Sulaiman Khan, the raja of Mahmudabad, opens an Urdu dictionary and reads me the definition of masala: “things conducive to good; occupations; honor, glory; ingredients; spices; a border of a garment such as gold or silver lace.” He could be describing the courtly culture of his ancestors, Arab nobility that ruled Mahmudabad, 35 miles from Lucknow, from the 16th century until 1947, when Sulaiman was a child. That's when Independence and the Partition of India and Pakistan changed the fate of the Muslim aristocracy, including the Khans. Although the court is long gone, some of its culture, especially its cuisine, lives on. Lavished with ghee and flavored with costly masalas, it is food that once displayed the wealth and generosity of the nobility. At his deteriorating…


STAY at the Lodhi (, the elegant Taj Palace, or the Taj Mahal New Delhi ( where Varq restaurant serves fine Indian fusion food. SHOP for saris and cookware at Khan Market. EXPLORE old Delhi with Kensington Tours ( or Cox & Kings ( Pop into 113-year-old Chaina Ram for the city's best sweets, and stroll Khari Baoli, Asia's biggest spice market. Pamela Timms' is a great guide to the area's street foods. EXPERIENCElangar, the giving of food, at the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh temple (, where tens of thousands are fed daily. EAT at chef Manish Mehrotra's cutting-edge Indian Accent (indian Lucknow STAY at Vivanta by Taj ( or the affordably priced Hotel Lineage ( EXPLORE old Lucknow with Waltz Tours & Travels ( to eat kebabs at Tundey,…


STAY in aristocratic style at Falaknuma Palace (, a hotel on lease from the royal family. EXPLORE Indo-Islamic monuments, like the Mughal dynasty's Qutb Shahi Tombs, then head to nearby Golconda Fort ruins, which overlook the city. EAT delicately spiced Hyderabadi mutton biryani at a local favorite, like 61-year-old Paradise Hotel in Paradise Circle; Shadab Hotel near Madina Circle in the old city; or the bustling Cafe Bahar inside the Old MLA Quarters. Bangalore STAY at the ITC Windsor ( EXPLORE Cubbon Park, built by the British in the 1800s, then EATrava idli, a variation of the steamed lentil-flour dumplings made with semolina flour and served with coconut chutney at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms ( Kozhikode STAY at Vivanta by Taj Malabar (, then SHOP for Kanchipuram silk at Nalli (, open since 1928. Sip…