Saveur

Saveur Fall 2020

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

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国家:
United States
语言:
English
出版商:
Bonnier Corporation
出版周期:
Quarterly
HK$38.75
HK$155.24
6 期号

本期

1
enjoy the jungle’s mystique and endless ocean views at grand velas

Grand Velas Riviera Maya takes you beyond all inclusive. Savor gourmet cuisine from renowned chefs, bring balance to body and mind with treatments in the holistic spa and unwind in suites with private terraces, plunge pools, and uninhibited water views. Eight restaurants take you on a culinary journey around the world with beachfront bistros, elegant eateries, and vibrant bars creating an exciting food and drink culture. The Kids’ Club and Teens’ Club won Virtuoso’s award for Best Family Program in 2019. SAVEUR ADVANTAGES: Experience the luxury of the Grand Velas Riviera Maya gourmet experience with a cooking lesson with one of our world-class chefs. Plus, Private one way transfer (airport to hotel), Suite Upgrade, Welcome Bottle of Mezcal and a $50 Spa Credit per person, per night. LOCATION Grand Velas Riviera Maya, Mexico PRICE Go Beyond…

2
editor’s note

BACK IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS, SEVEN or eight months ago, a typical magazine food shoot involved a veritable army of professionals. The magazine’s art director, photo director, and at least one editor were usually on set with the photographer, a food stylist, and a prop stylist—all three of whom might’ve brought assistants. Shooting in a studio? Then, you’ve got the studio’s staffon hand too. Start contact-tracing that scenario, including prep days spent at prop houses and specialty grocers, and the danger becomes clear. Sending a crew around the world to shoot on location? Forget about it. So how, exactly, does one make a global food magazine amid a global pandemic? Very, very locally, and involving as few people as possible. When we began work on this issue in May, I…

3
the unlikely affineur

CHEESEMAKING, MANKIND’S LONG-running alchemy of controlled rot, involves transforming perishable milk into something exponentially more complex, long-lasting, and valuable. It requires the dedication and patience of a monk. Until recently, Antoine Ricardou was, in no way, a cheesemaker. An architect and co-founder of the branding and design firm Be-poles, Ricardou spent his days jetting between the firm’s Paris and New York City offices, overseeing projects for such clients as Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan and Les Roches Rouges on the Côte d’Azur. Then, this past March—well, you know what happened this past March. So, the 47-year-old, along with his wife and their three children, left a pandemic-stricken Paris for the relative isolation of France’s Haute-Savoie region, where the family owns an early-1800s chalet. Ricardou, who chuckles at the word “chalet,” is quick…

3
raising a better bird

Blue Apron founder Matt Wadiak has moved onto greener pastures, where happy chickens roam free. ROASTED, GRILLED, PRESSED INTO nuggets—Americans sure do love chicken. Last year, we devoured almost 100 pounds of the protein, per capita, nearly double the amount of beef or pork that each of us, on average, consumed. And the vast majority of our poultry, even the organic free-range kind, comes from a handful of breeds designed to fatten up quick and yield mostly white meat—“efficient feed-conversion” in industry speak. Matt Wadiak calls it “inhumane.” These freakishly fast-growing birds don’t have immune systems robust enough to stay healthy in overcrowded chicken houses. The result? A bland, antibioticlaced product born of cruelty. “Those chicks suffer from the minute they hatch,” Wadiak says. “As thoughtful consumers, we need to consider that.” Wadiak,…

13
test kitchen

PAGE 59 Pandemic Punch The “Ménage à Quatre” has filled many a coupe at my house in 2020. Racy name notwithstanding (we’re bored, but not that bored), this respectable little cocktail issues its siren song at today’s acceptable cocktail hour. (Four o’clock? Two o’clock? Noon?) My husband and I discovered it in David Lebovitz’s Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France. What can I say? We’re still drinking our way through this situation. — Catherine Tillman Whalen In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine ¾ ounce gin; ¾ounce Grand Marnier, Cointreau, or triple sec; ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice; and ¾ ounce Lillet Blanc or Cap Corse Blanc. Shake for several seconds, then strain into a chilled coupe to serve. PAGE 53 The Salty Owl’s Ham-and-Jam Hand Pies MAKES: 4 LARGE…

83
the saveur 100

01 The Artist Who understands Your Pandemic Pain Rafael Gonzales Jr. not only gets it, he makes a game of it. With a series of Lotería cards that call upon our shared COVID-19 neuroses, this San Antonio visionary (@pinche_raf_art) has turned Mexico’s version of bingo into a highly collectible coping mechanism, one that may or may not rival the curative powers of a salt-rimmed frozen margarita. —Shane Mitchell 02 GRILL? WHO NEEDS A GRILL WHEN YOU HAVE THIS? You could spend a few grand to have a brick pizza oven built in your backyard. Then again, you could also just buy this little number for $500. Ooni’s Koda 16 portable pizza oven (ooni.com) hooks up to a standard propane tank and reaches temperatures of up to 932°F—hot enough to deliver that crispy, slightly…