Saveur December 2016 - January 2017

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


this year in paris

Since I throw only one big party a year, and since I’ve been throwing it for 20 years, you’d think I’d be more organized. But I’m not. I usually don’t know who’s coming until a couple of days before the party—and I’ve been known to change the menu the day of. New Year’s Eve dinners are like that chez us in Paris. Our longtime, very Parisian friend, Bernard Collet, a photographer and my Emily Post guide to French customs, says that what always reminds him that I’m American is my habit of inviting strangers home for dinner. Preparty jitters often have me worrying that this jumble of old friends and new won’t work. But it does. Always. Perhaps it’s the magic of the changing year or maybe it’s the spell of…

the language of paella

So fundamental is the role of paella in Valencian life that an entire language has developed around it. To pagar una paella, literally “to pay a paella,” is to make a bet. When kids are acting up or being indecisive, parents might say: ¿Què farem, paelleta o arròs caldós? “What should we make, paella or soupy rice?” Most important of all is the word comboi, which Valencians use to describe the entire paella experience: the ritual that surrounds cooking and gathering to eat, drink, and be merry. To fully understand comboi, you need to be born into the culture, a luxury life never afforded me, so I did the next best thing: I befriended Salvador Serrano, a native Valencian, and begged him to take me home with him. I have lived in…

a roast in every pot

“What were you cooking?” a neighbor asked. For hours, the rich aroma of beef braising in wine had wafted from the kitchen, under the door and into the hallway of the Manhattan apartment where we were working. Tenants waiting for the elevator had, apparently, begun to salivate. Pot roast has that effect. Just about every carnivorous culture has a thing for braising meat, the universal method of transforming tough-but-tasty cuts into succulent morsels. Patience, more than fancy cuts, is what you need to melt connective tissue and amp up umami, the distinct meaty flavor that results when protein breaks down into glutamic acid. When done right—long and slow, with lots of patience— braising brings lesser cuts into the spotlight. And when applied to a crosscut beef shank (most shank meat ends…

3 essential tarts to try

Chocolate Ganache Tart with Sea Salt and Espresso Beans SERVES 8–10; Photo P.51 Active: 45 min. • Total: 1 hr. 30 min. (plus cooling time) A touch of egg is the simple, secret ingredient in this luscious tart’s filling. Just a little gives the combination of chocolate and cream a sliceable, fudgy consistency. The crumbly cocoa-laced crust can be pressed right into a fluted pan, no rolling pin required. Swap out espresso beans for toasted nuts, chopped brittle, granola, or crushed peppermint candy. Just don’t eliminate the sea salt; it adds a bright, irreplaceable contrast to the decadent filling. FOR THE CRUST: 1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted butter, softened ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 large egg yolks 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ tsp. kosher salt FOR THE FILLING: 1 large egg plus 1 large…

the art of the tart

The view of the tart as too uphill or too technique-oriented to make at home has always been the greatest obstacle to home bakers,” says Maury Rubin, owner of Manhattan’s City Bakery and author of the slender yet canonical Book of Tarts. Rubin is one of a passionate tribe of bakers that puts the tart, above all other pastry, on a pedestal. He’s not wrong about the tart’s daunting reputation; defined by their delicate, crumbly shells, open-faced designs, and a precise ratio of dough to filling, tarts demand close attention and reward practice. If cookie baking is like dropping coins into a jukebox—pleasure found easy and cheap—constructing tarts is like conducting a symphony. They require the unity of many elements: crust, baking, filling, and decoration. Therefore, tarts encourage a perfectionist approach; a…

the unvanquishable tucker’s

Joe Tucker doesn’t want to talk about who started the fire in his restaurant last year because he’s already forgiven him. The guy’s gone now anyway, of to God knows where. “He had his problems,” Joe told me as I swiped a biscuit through a bowl full of grits. “I guess we all do.” Spoken like a true saint. But if you know this guy, even a little bit, it’s not too surprising. Joe and his wife, Carla, are the closest thing to saintsI’ve ever met. I’m Catholic so I go looking for saints. But my attendance at church is sparse these days, and it’s at Tucker’s where I feel the spirit in me. The restaurant has been feeding Cincinnati’s tired, poor, and huddled masses since Joe’s parents, the late E.G.…