Saveur February/March 2017

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


i’ve been making stock, lots of stock.

Pretty much anything goes: celery that’s lost its snap, onions and garlic still in their skins, stray stalks, a handful of carrot tops, peppercorns scattered like buckshot, and, from the freezer, frosty bones. Things forgotten and unearthed. Onto a sheet pan and into the crankedup oven. The ragtag mess emerges gently burnt, transformed, ready to release its mysteries to the pot of water set at a trembling simmer. After a few hours the whole house smells good, though often I’m the only one awake to savor it. I’ve been taking stock and making stock, lots of stock, late into the night—partly for the honest pleasure of putting scraps to good use and partly for the abstract distraction that making stuff from memory offers. This isn’t a political magazine, but it is…

burma to go

One Saturday in Elmhurst, Queens, Ma Chaw Su Kyaw was busy sautéing chile catfish in her home kitchen. Not yet noon, she had already been cooking for five hours, neatly packing clear plastic containers for the 30 or so people who would arrive to pick up soft tofu salad, cold chicken garlic noodles, and sweet coconut tapioca cake. Kyaw runs one of New York’s underground Burmese food clubs, a handful of home cooking operations that were born of demand for the elusive cuisine—so elusive the clubs’ audiences are almost entirely Burmese. Unlike Thai, Laotian, and Malay cuisine, Burmese has yet to enter the city’s restaurant scene successfully, so home cooks have stepped in to fill the stomachs of nostalgic expats. Kyaw’s front garden brimmed with roselle, an herb prized in Burmese…

looking for princess pamela

Strobel served smothered pork chops, sweet potato biscuits, and buttermilk pie to a crowd of regulars that included Diana Ross and Andy Warhol. “YOU don’t bet against a woman like that,” Matt Lee says of Pamela Strobel, better known to disciples of her cooking as Princess Pamela. Orphanedand alone, Strobel made her way north from South Carolina in the 1940s. She opened the Little Kitchen in New York’s East Village in the 1960s, and in 1969, she published Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook, an original take on Southern cooking from the perspective of a self-made African-American woman. Later, she opened Princess Pamela’s Southern Touch, where she served smothered pork chops, sweet potato biscuits, and buttermilk pie to a crowd of regu lars that included Diana Ross, Andy Warhol, and Tom Wolfe.…

princess pamela’s brown coconut pie

SERVES 8 Active: 40 min. • Total: 1 hr. 20 min. (plus cooling) The original recipe for this pie, adapted from Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook, was a mere few lines—devoid of even a dough recipe and intended for laid-back, confident bakers. Using fresh grated coconut is essential: It creates the ideal texture and keeps the sugary filling from skewing too sweet. Use the fine side of a box grater, or place small pieces of fresh coconut in a food processor. For the dough: Ice 1¼cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp. granulated sugar ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 stick (4 oz.) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 egg, beaten, for brushing For filling and topping: 1 large coconut, meat finely grated with its inner brown skin (2 packed cups) 2 cups granulated sugar 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 cup whole milk 3 large eggs,…

the pastry archipelago

We don’t set our alarm clocks in Povoação. Church bells clanging nearby or one of the neighborhood’s many vocal backyard roosters do the job. Sleepy-eyed, we cross the jardim—the cobble stoned center of our waterfront village on the island of São Miguel where benches and gardens surround a gazebo—to Restaurante Jardim for galãos (lattes) and one of Maria de Deus Rebelo’s decadent fofas da Povoação, éclair-like pastries full of vanilla custard. In the Azores, the mountainous mid-Atlantic archipelago belonging to Portugal, every isolated island has its own locally beloved pastries, each with its own history. On São Miguel, where my father is from and where we often visit, there are several: slightly sweet griddled bolos lêvedos (Portuguese muffins) made with the pungent mineral waters of the hot springs in Furnas; dense, intensely…

the sesame connection

It was a good year for sesame in Ethiopia. The reliable hard spring rains had ended abruptly in time for July’s planting, and the frost held off until late November, giving the seeds time to turn bright white and plump up with oil. Of the dozens of sesame varieties, it’s the buttery, complex Humera seeds that produce the best tahini, prized throughout the Middle East and beyond. And those sesame seeds start here in the rich soils of Humera, a town dotted with mud huts in the Tigray region of Ethiopia, near the Eritrean and Sudanese borders. Worldwide demand for sesame has surged 20 percent in each of the last two years, much of it going into the production of oil, sesame-topped breads and cakes,and, increasingly, tahini—a creamy paste made from…