Saveur January - February 2015

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


the saveur 100 looks' edition

Cook the cover... #1 BRINE, RUB, STEAM-ROAST, AND SEAR THE WORLD’S GREATEST SHORT RIBS “I was going for a mix of pastrami and churrasco styles,” Justin Smillie says. And you nod, but, honestly, you’re pretty distracted by the peppercorn-encrusted, ludicrously juicy short ribs in question and don’t immediately appreciate quite how bold that Jewish deli/Latin grill mash-up really is. The chef at swank new restaurant Upland in Manhattan and author of the forthcoming Slow Fires (Clarkson Potter, November 2015), Smillie is rightly famous for his way with this sinewy and complex cut. “They’re the ultimate expression of beefi ness,” he says, as you’re taking another bite and fi nding no reason to disagree. Here he off sets that dark intensity with the acidity of lemon and the peppery radiance of radishes for…

in praise of schmutz & schnibbles

Good cooking, like good living, involves a little risk. Sure, we must learn how to control the heat, and cut with some sort of precision. But once that’s down, it’s time to start bending the rules, selectively. The best cooks I know let out their own reins and cook intuitively. They flirt with the dark, the crusty, the nearly-too-far-gone. Most of my favorite dishes teeter on the brink of burnt. I love, for example, when the mahogany edges of a pan-fried steak leave an imprint on the pan, or the seared scallop wears an espresso-colored crown, or when that bit of chopped garlic shrinks in the sizzling oil like a gold star about to burn out, its flavor fully exhaled into the oil. This point of doneness is better known as the…

whole veg cooking

ROASTED CARROTS WITH CARROTTOP PESTO AND BURRATA SERVES 6 1 cup plus 2 tbsp. extravirgin olive oil 1 1⁄2 lb. small carrots with green tops (2 carrots peeled, remaining carrots scrubbed and trimmed, leaving 1” green tops, leaves and tender stems reserved) 2 1⁄2 tsp. flake sea salt, such as Maldon 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 4 cloves garlic (3 unpeeled and lightly crushed, 1 peeled) 1⁄2 cup packed basil leaves 1⁄2 cup walnuts 1⁄4 cup grated parmesan, plus more for garnish 8 oz. burrata or fresh mozzarella, drained 2 1⁄2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Heat oven to 500°. Heat 1⁄4 cup oil in a 12” ovenproof skillet over medium-high. Add trimmed carrots and 1 tsp. salt; cook, turning carrots as needed, until browned, 6–8 minutes. Add butter and crushed garlic; roast until carrots are tender, 10–12 minutes. 2 Pulse three-quarters of carrot…

why we’re in japan

We were somewhere in the woods of the Nagano Prefecture, following a mushroom prophet and totally enveloped in fog, when it finally hit me: We’re really doing this. We are going to open a restaurant in Japan. It was the middle of October. We’d gone through nearly two years of planning for this adventure. But there was something about this moment, about digging into the dirt and not having any idea where the hell I was, that made it all suddenly, abundantly clear. I’d dreamt of something like this for years, since I was a young cook without the money to travel, much less a restaurant of my own. As my career progressed and I managed to get my first taste of those mythical islands, the desire only deepened. I wanted to…

#38 how to fake french sauces

DEGLAZE WITH TEA It’s an old Quebecois kitchen habit to use strong black tea, which has tannins similar to red wine, to deglaze a pan. After meat is browned, transfer it to a plate. Add 1⁄2 cup strong black tea and an acid (for poultry, 1–2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, and for red meat, 1–2 tbsp. red wine vinegar); cook, scraping up browned bits from bottom of skillet, until thickened. Remove from heat; stir in 2 tbsp. cold butter, salt, and pepper. Makes 1⁄3 cup. CRÈME DE SOJA Th is sauce, which McMillan learned from legendary Montreal chef Nicolas Jongleux, involves soy sauce, but tastes completely French. It’s a deceptively easy accompaniment to royale of rabbit liver, boudin, and meaty fi shes. To make it, whip 1⁄2 cup heavy cream into soft peaks.…

home improvement

#49 TREAT YOUR LEFTOVERS RIGHT Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen’s ceramic bowls with fi tted wood lids do double duty as serving vessels and storage containers. The sturdy matte pottery bases come in an assortment of muted colors and sizes, each topped with a lid of polished walnut or oak that can also be used as a platter. (VVD Pottery, $230–395; #50 SERVE WITH STYLE Detroit jewelry metalsmiths Adam Whitney, Gabriel Craig, and Amy Weiks recently expanded to refi ned kitchenware at their store, Smith Shop ($200–398; Their beautiful hand-forged and handriveted steel and copper pieces make a statement . #51 DRESS UP COCKTAIL HOUR Based on the surrealist parlor game cadavre exquis, Christian Lacroix’s “Love Who You Want” porcelain coasters ($95 for a set of four; feature segments of colorful characters…