Saveur

Saveur January - February 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

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国家:
United States
语言:
English
出版商:
Bonnier Corporation
出版周期:
Quarterly
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HK$155.24
6 期号

本期

10
the brighter side of winter vegetables

No chef wants to open a restaurant in winter. Instead, you want to burst on the scene, edible flowers at the ready, when the markets are overflowing with gorgeous produce. Unfortunately, I haven’t been so lucky: The last three restaurants I opened were all supposed to debut in summer, but each was delayed until long after the fields had turned brown. And now, as I prepare to open a fourth restaurant in San Francisco, Nightbird, it’s the same story all over again—another winter opening. I used to want to bang my head on the wall, but as a chef you learn to adjust. Winter dishes needn’t be limited to comforting stews and hearty braises; we can make things that are light on their toes and don’t leave you feeling weighed…

20
the okinawa lessons

My first meal in Okinawa, a Japanese prefecture known for the extraordinary longevity of its people thanks to a traditionally vegetable-intensive diet devoid of processed foods, was a crispy and insanely delicious fried thing, more chicken hand than chicken finger, purchased at a Lawson konbini (convenience store). For dessert, I ate all of the smoky, dark brown Okinawa sugar from my hotel room tea service, then drank a cold Orion, the local beer, in my bathtub at Ryukyu Onsen Senagajima, where I spent my first few days napping off jet lag and soaking in an outdoor onsen (or hot spring) overlooking dramatic rock outcroppings on the fringes of the East China Sea. The polyglot cuisine, lush flora, and laid-back vibe of this extraordinary subtropical island chain, once the independent Ryukyu…

10
beans are beautiful

Did I mention I love beans? Love. I fell hard for them years ago. It was a humble pot of pinto beans that did it, and there was no turning back. Th ose fabled pintos were my induction into the glory of Phaseolus vulgaris—the common bean. Simmered slowly and gently with an onion and a chunk of bacon, the beans took on a velvety, creamy consistency. Th ey were served on a plate with a ladleful of rich bean broth and a square of just-baked cornbread. Th is was nothing like cafeteria three-bean salad, or the sweet baked beans from a can I’d been served as a kid. Th is was deep, nurturing, primal. From there it was an easy step to black beans with onions and cilantro or smashed cannellini…

26
bounty of the promised land

Mike Solomonov, sneakers caked in mud, hands stained red from plucking mulberries, comes bounding across the field like he’s just picked the padlock on the candy shop. “Bro, check out these crazy squash!” He carries a long, pale green vegetable resembling a peeled cucumber, albeit layered in downy peachlike fuzz. It’s a fakus, he tells me, a curious plant native to this part of Israel. “You can cook it like zucchini, or eat it raw like cucumber,” he says, breaking off a chunk and offering me a bite. It’s snappy, slightly bitter, and entirely delicious. “Right?!” the chef replies with a grin, sprinting back to the patch to harvest some more. We’re at Mizpe Hayamim, a mountaintop farm and wellness retreat overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Most people visit Israel for…

7
yale’s pizza prodigies

Recently, I found myself in lower Manhattan eating finger food and clinking glasses with Jonathan Holloway, the dean of Yale College at Yale University. We should have been talking about the reason for the swanky gathering: a fund-raiser for René Redzepi’s Danish nonprofit culinary think tank, MAD, and its new partnership with Yale to launch a leadership institute for ambitious chefs intent on improving food systems around the globe. Redzepi himself was visible in the open kitchen, preparing dinner along with Roy Choi, Daniel Patterson, and Dan Barber. And I also meant to ask Holloway, a brilliant scholar of African-American history, about his own work. Instead, thinking of New Haven, Connecticut, my thoughts turned, naturally, to pizza. “What’s your favorite?” I asked. Holloway responded with something shocking, the kind of secret-sounding inside…

11
ancient mystery revealed! origin of the cocktail discovered! ancestry buried in a horse’s behind! shocking details!

Fo r 15 years, I’ve been trying to figure out why we call a cocktail a cocktail and where this most useful little invention came from in the first place. Not long ago, my quest saw me poking around a sun-dappled, quiet old churchyard in the pleasant town of Lewiston, New York, where Catherine Hustler—the woman who most assuredly maybe invented the cocktail—sleeps her sleep. More recently, it found me fiddling with my phone on London’s busy Borough High Street, just south of London Bridge, as the lunchtime crowds swirled around me, trying to get a decent picture of an anodyne modern office building distinguished only by the three sculpted blue musicians walking, for reasons of their own, straight up its façade. Here, 300 years before the arrival of the…