Saveur June - July 2015

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


a houston cookout with a far east reach

Tell Chris Shepherd that you’ve never been to Houston and in an instant you’re an exchange student and he’s your host dad. He stops at nothing less than full immersion. Te chef puts on his apron, fires up his grill, and as he prepares an Asian-infected menu for one of his frequent Sunday get-togethers, begins the lessons. Tunes from country singer-songwriter Lyle Lovett and rapper Paul Wall, both Houston-born, blare from his iPhone. He hands me a Topo Chico sparkling water and puts in a pickup order at a nearby Shipley’s, a donut chain that sells warm Eastern European pastries called kolaches, here filled with sausage and cheese (it’s a Czexas thing). Soon come the rapid-fire fun facts about his hometown: Te most diverse city in the country? Houston, he…

north country fare

Sun streams through the clerestory skylight of Spoon and Stable, a former barn in Minneapolis’ North Loop warehouse district, casting the restaurant’s chef, Gavin Kaysen, in a beatific glow wholly suited to the moment: Kaysen’s preaching the gospel of North Country ingredients. The white marble pass of his open kitchen is an altar upon which sits a whole raw duck from a farm in Brainerd; a large jar of molasses-dark buckwheat honey is from Little Falls; and a saucepan of coal-black rice comes from just across the state line in Wisconsin. Kaysen reaches for the duck, cradling it in his upturned palm, lifts the cavity to his nose, and inhales. “Smell that…” he insists, proffering the duck, which, true enough, has a distinct aroma, the minerals-and-popcorn whiff of dry-aged beef. “All…

best beers for barbecue

Smoked beers are not entirely new. Time was, before coal and gas kilns, all brewers cured their fresh grains over burning wood. As production modernized, beer’s heady fumes dissipated, except in the German city of Bamberg, where rauchbier, as it’s called there, lived on, made in ovens fired with fragrant beech. Today’s new smoked beers are made the same way, with wet kernels of barley slowly dried over wood fires. The difference is that instead of using only beech, American brewers are smoking with local hardwood to create beers as varied as the nation’s regional barbecue styles. Fullsteam brewery, in Durham, North Carolina, makes a brown porter, Hogwash, with grains that are smoked using the state’s trademark hickory. Most pitmasters would never pair their meticulously smoked meat with strong, full-flavored brews,…

the american archipelago

Somewhere on a small and placid island at the edge of America, two men in an octagonal wooden house are drinking vintage port and discussing Trinidadian steel drums, Alain Passard, and the taste of wild salmonberries. “Don’t mention the drums,” Blaine Wetzel says. His meditative hobby, he’s aware, too perfectly completes the portrait of the crunchy young foraging chef who lives in an octagonal house equipped with a woodshop and cider press, kombucha fermenting in casks in the greenhouse, and a sauna out back. In truth, Wetzel’s not much troubled by the image. He landed on Lummi—which rhymes with “tummy” and is named for the native tribe that no longer inhabits these eleven square miles of towering first and cedars, hilly microfarms, and shingled cabins, ringed by a single main road and…

middle of somewhere

I have always thought of the North Carolina Piedmont, where I grew up, as the state’s under-appreciated middle child. Its 18th-century mill towns and cities—Durham, Chapel Hill, Charlotte—are sandwiched in the center between the more famous mountains, home to ever-funky Asheville, and the gorgeous coastal plains, with its beaches and dunes and fancy houses on the Outer Banks. I was raised in the booming state capital of Raleigh, a city that sprawls outward from old streets lined with oaks and lacy Victorian porches. When I was young, those who came through the area usually had practical reasons: government careers, a stop at the area’s top-tier universities, a job in one of the glassy sci-tech engineering complexes. Savvy tourists headed for the rest of the state, if not to Charleston or Atlanta.…

the science of smoke

Smoke is a funny thing. Light as air, it floats up in a fragrant plume and then drifts away, bestowing the taste of wood in its wake. So what exactly is this aromatic, elemental thing that can deeply flavor meat or subtly transform coldsmoked salmon? We asked noted food scientist Harold McGee to shed some light on its strange alchemy. How it behaves “In combustion, very large molecules break down into lots of very small ones. Those tiny aromatic products fly through the air and end up in our noses and on the surface of food. Just the same way moisture condenses on a cold glass in summertime, the volatile molecules of the smoke vapor condense on the food.” How it preserves “In the combustion cocktail of hundreds of volatile molecules in smoke, there…