Saveur June/July 2017

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


test kitchen

WAX ON Not all good things bees make come in bear-shaped bottles When a friend’s beekeeping dad sent us two frames of honeycomb from his family’s rural Pennsylvania property, the whole saveur team came running to snap photos and nibble on pieces. Bees produce honey during the warmer months to eat during winter, building tiny wax cells (honeycomb) in which to store it. Since healthy hives produce far more honey than the bees could ever possibly consume, beekeepers build hives with removable frames they can access quickly to harvest the honey and comb without disturbing the bees’ dwelling or damaging their supply. The comb itself is not only edible but has a delightfully chewy, tacky texture. As with honey, the flavor and color of combs from different producers will depend on which…

the comeback: baked alaska

Left with a freezer full of ice cream from “Churn After Reading” (page 24), we decided to make something with it (rather than merely grab spoonfuls each time we walked by the fridge). Baked Alaska, a 19th-century American dessert of layered ice cream cloaked with meringue, came to mind. The choices of how to make baked Alaska are endless—some contain only one type of ice cream, others three or more; some have a layer of cake as a base, others don’t; some are flambéed, others not. We went full throttle by using three plentiful ice cream layers separated by crumbled chocolate cookies atop a fudgy, flourless chocolate cake. Then we topped it with a splash of rum and set it ablaze, because the best part of this old-school dessert is…

get to know: khachapuri

We’ve seldom met a stuffed bread we didn’t love, and khachapuri— Georgia’s national dish and the country’s catch-all term for various breads filled with cheeses— is the latest and most tempting example. (Search “coffin bread,” “bunny chow,” or “scaccia” on for more.) Sometimes flat and chewy, other times tender and fluffy, khachapuri dough comes in many forms, and its myriad potential fillings are adapted and improvised all over Georgia. For months we’ve been turning out our own classic and creative variations from the test kitchen (nine kinds to be exact), but our favorite is one of the most traditional and recognizable: adjaruli khachapuri, a yeasted crust with a gooey filling of salty brined cheese, runny egg, and melted butter. While you may be tempted to eat one of these on…

editor’s note

“Summer is another country,” someone smart once said to me. Where he came from winter seemed to last just shy of eternity and each day of summer was experienced as a brief, happy miracle. I like traveling to places that take their summers seriously, where the glorious reprieve from darkness and cold makes folks feel worshipful toward the sun. Scandinavia with its nightless midsummer is like this. Montreal, between blizzards, is too. Even closer to home, the ideal (read: lazy) summer day can sometimes seem like a destination that’s hard to reach. Busy routines are tough to shake. Scheduling purposeful nothingness is always harder than it should be. Getting out of town helps. Going somewhere with the family— somewhere there’s a body of water to gape at or jump into, a house…

shooting food

1850s CHARLES PHILIPPE AUGUSTE CAREY In the mid 19th century, the still-life genre had begun to shift from painting to photography. Props became less symbolic, more literal. In Carey’s Still Life with Waterfowl, which pictures meticulously hung birds, a saucepan suggests that the waterfowl will become food. Gone are the more magnificent piles of animals present in paintings, which both represented status and served as vanitas (symbols hinting at death, decay, or ephemerality). This is a particularly elegant example of using food in its raw form as still life; other examples from this period often lacked the grace of the paintings they were emulating, and could seem cluttered and grotesque. His work is reflective of the time, but in a way, very ahead. Perhaps Carey was purposely trying to forge a different…

pesto, change-o

Kombu, a green kelp that’s sold in dried, leathery sheets, is a basic building block of Japanese dashi. We’ve been using it to make a full-bodied vegetarian stock (see “How to Think About Vegetables,” page 36) but hated the idea of throwing it out post-simmer. That got us thinking: Why not use it in a pesto? Soaked or cooked kombu blends easily into a silky sauce and plays well with any combination of pestofriendly aromatics (citrus zests, garlic, chiles), herbs, and nuts. The slightly briny pesto is perfectly suited to light seafood dishes and is more likely than herb pestos to keep its bright green hue when hit with the heat from grilled meats or steaming bowls of pasta. burgers, or tossed with roasted or steamed vegetables. Add a heap of pesto-dredged…