Saveur

Saveur March 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

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国家:
United States
语言:
English
出版商:
Bonnier Corporation
出版周期:
Quarterly
HK$38.75
HK$155.24
6 期号

本期

7
nicaragua’s wilder shores

It’s not easy getting to Little Corn Island. The challenge is part of the charm. At least that’s what my girlfriend, Danielle, and I tell ourselves as we step onto the ferry, neither of us quite noticing that it isn’t really a ferry, but a working ship transporting thousands of gallons of gasoline. As the boat chugs into stomach-turning swells, diesel fumes fill the cramped passenger hold. Seeking fresh air outside, I watch three men trolling for fish off the back of the boat, each clutching salt-crusted handlines. On a bench between greasy fuel drums, a gray-haired German man in wire-rim glasses has wedged himself into a child-sized life vest and stares grimly at the heaving horizon. One errant spark, his fierce look says to me, and we all go down…

2
editor’s note

A good meal can make your week. A great one can change how you think about food. In Tokyo a few years ago I lucked into the greatest of lunches in the most unassuming of places: a spare, tranquil, and tiny spot on a humdrum residential block of Shinjuku-ku. The restaurant, Shimahei, specialized in soba, buckwheat noodles. Yoshiaki Shimada, the proprietor and chef, is not young but fiercely agile. Loosely wrapped in a pajama-like robe half open to his chest and shuttling between steaming cauldron and pristine tangle of freshly cut noodles, he produced a soba kaiseki menu that was quietly dazzling. A cold soup of buckwheat “milk” was followed by soba-maki, or sushi rolls in which cut soba noodles replaced vinegared rice, wrapped in nori around sweet shrimp and a…

6
the entertainer

L ee Bailey was the original food-and-lifestyle guru. Writing and photographing in a pre–Martha Stewart world, he was a pioneer in suggesting that a meal’s setting was just as important as the food, that the way you layered sliced tomatoes on a plate mattered, and that a bandana might be used to cradle bread, fruit, and cheese on the way to a picnic, then do double duty as a place mat. He was, as The New York Times summed it up in his 2003 obituary, “an expert in the stylish life.” I write cookbooks for a living, and no one has influenced or inspired me more than Lee—even though, it pains me to say, it’s likely you’ve never heard of him. While his legacy isn’t quite as imprinted on the culture…

8
the sprouted kitchen

Every lentil, every chickpea, even every sunflower seed, has a secret green salad hidden deep within it. Dried up and left for soaking, souping, or sprinkling, legumes and seeds can come back to life. With just a few days of moisture and warmth, they transform into sometimes-crunchy, sometimesdelicate, nutrient-packed sprouts. “Homegrown sprouts add a welcome brightness to everything,” says Jessica Koslow, chef-owner of Los Angeles’ Sqirl restaurant. Koslow has had lines out the door for her rice bowls and fresh salads ever since she opened the “bacon-serving but vegan-friendly” spot in 2012. “I always have buckets of soaking legumes around the restaurant, and I love waiting for the little sprout stems to poke out.” A sprout is simply a germinated seed, a little newborn plant at most a few inches long, a…

16
sonoko dreams of soba

I had the first line of this story written before I even got out of the car. “Dogs smell your fear,” it said at the top of my notebook. “But soba smells your anxiety.” I’d been snarled in L.A. traffic, late on my way to meet Sonoko Sakai, the woman waiting to show me the way of soba, but there was one thing I already knew about the meditative culture of Japanese noodle making: Stressed out and road-ragey is not the way of soba. If ramen is the pork-fat shock-and-awe of the noodle world, soba is what philosophers slurp—a simple buckwheat noodle, a cuisine of purity and contemplation. A soba restaurant’s menu may include a tray of noodles served with tempura, or maybe a tangle bathed in a lean, coffee-dark duck…

3
sicily, bottled

They call winemaking an art, but Natalia Simeti wasn’t buying it. Her idea of art meant masterpieces that quickened your pulse, Leonardos and Vermeers and Matisses, not stomping grapes at the family vineyard. So she studied museum management in Italy and the Netherlands and honed her skills as an intern at New York’s Whitney Museum of American Art. In 2001, when a master’s thesis brought her home to Sicily, she dove into a culturally rich life in Palermo, working in museum communications. Bosco Falconeria, her family’s farm an hour west of the city, seemed a world away. (If the name sounds familiar, it’s because the 40-acre property played a prominent role in the 1986 book On Persephone’s Island: A Sicilian Journal, a chronicle of Sicilian life by Mary Taylor Simeti,…