Saveur May 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


editor’s note

Of all the butter-smeared, dog-eared, duck fat–splattered cookbooks lining my kitchen shelves, perhaps the most well-loved, scribbled-in and consistently consulted is Saveur Cooks Authentic French, published by this magazine in 1999. I’ve made the gougères so many times my arm hurts just looking at the photos of pâte à choux being beaten into fluffy submission. Frankly, I just like saying “pâte à choux.” Because, while I’m an earnest embracer of prevailing culinary currents—be they New Nordic, Japanomania, or Whatever We’ll Be Writing About Next Month—the truth is I’m something of an unapologetic romantic when it comes to classic French cuisine. I drink Marc de Bourgogne, despite its notes of lighter fluid and egregious affectation. I think of my young children as a burgeoning kitchen brigade. And I curl up with volumes like…

welcome to camdebordeville

6th arrondissement I recently told our son that we were thinking of moving across the Seine. His response: What about your favorite café? What about Twiggy, the cheesemonger? Juan, the caviste? Your neighbors? Your nearby friends, who’ll come for dinner at a moment’s notice? And would you really move away from Yves Camdeborde? Sure, I live in Paris, but in reality I live in the 6th arrondissement, in the small town of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, in the micro-village known as Odéon, on the stretch I think of as Camdebordeville. Yves Camdeborde is the first person I see when I head out for croissants, and he’s the last person (not counting my husband) I kiss good-night when I’m coming home from dinner. If my husband were the jealous sort, he’d have his sights on Yves, since I’ve…

paris picks: tatiana and katia levha

11th arrondissement In 2014, Le Servan, an airy, light-filled bistro, opened its doors in Paris’ 11th arrondissement, an up-and-coming neighborhood that has since become the hub of cool. At its helm: Tatiana (left) and Katia Levha, two Philippine-French sisters. Tatiana honed her skills at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and in her small, open kitchen, turns out inventive yet comforting dishes, like clams in Thai basil broth and asparagus with tandoori cream. Katia sources the impeccable wine list and runs the warm, informal service. Sit down for a meal, and Katia comes over to recommend a glass or answer a question about an appetizer. As she goes to confer with Tatiana about something, you feel as if you’re dining at the home you wish you had—a feat all the more impressive because of…

the kugelhopf of christine ferber

Niedermorschwihr, Alsace I arrived in a wet snowfall at 6 a.m., the same time as the young employees and apprentices. It was December 3 at Maison Ferber, the family’s shop in the village of Niedermorschwihr, in the hills just west of the city of Colmar in Alsace. Christine Ferber, pâtissier-confiseur, had the somberness of someone who lacks sleep. She always wakes up early, she said, and works long hours. She joined her father, Maurice, in the family business in 1980. She had trained in Paris and brought back with her a sense of luxury. Maurice, dressed in crisp white, set the tone of the workshop—happy but disciplined, with a strong seriousness of purpose. I had come to see Christine make her kugelhopf. It’s a cake, but more precisely, it’s a form of…

peak spirits

Rhône-Alpes, Altitude 6,831 Hubert Bigallet chewed the gnarled white root of a wild gentian plant. In summer, the Alpine flower blooms in shades of deep violet or brilliant yellow. By autumn, it’s brown and spiky. Gentian, a highaltitude plant, is prized for the complexity of its bitter flavor. There’s a long history in the Chartreuse mountains, where we are, and across the border in Italy, of distilling aperitifs and digestifs from medicinal mountain shrubs and roots. Gentian is the chief bittering agent for a wide swath of liquors: Campari and Cynar, and most amari made on the Italian side of the Alps, and French aperitifs, including Salers, Suze, and Amer Picon. While northern Italian aperitif spritzes, laced with amaro, and various punishingly herbaceous digestifs get global attention these days, French versions are still…

the frite goes on

The Queen of French Fries was not born potato royalty. Suzy Palatin grew up in the French-Caribbean outpost of Guadeloupe before moving to Paris. While working as an actress and model there, she found that there were no french fries in the capital that met her exacting standards. So she turned her attention to tubers, headed for the stove, and started frying. In time she was making frites for an esteemed circle of food-minded friends, including the chefs Jean-François Piège and Guy Martin. Hearing rumors of her frying prowess, legendary pastry master Pierre Hermé headed to her house to try a few and, blown away, promptly gave her the royal title. In her book on the subject, Les Pommes Frites, Palatin reveals her secrets: Wash and dry your potatoes thoroughly,…