Saveur October - November 2016

This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors. It includes all aspects of the world of food including eating, cooking and reading. In addition, it contains informative news about the latest in culinary trends, kitchen tips and techniques and a calendar of culinary events.

United States
Bonnier Corporation
6 期号


eat the world.

Of Earth and Sky The path to the sky,” said Yieber Cueva, pointing to a faint track leading upward into the mist. Lowering clouds masked Qullqi Cruz, the Silver Cross, a glacial peak thousands of feet above the unpaved road. Rockslides left gravel streaked like tears down the mountain. It was the rainy season in the Andes. I took it on faith that we were heading in the right direction and clambered after my translator, a stocky former porter on the Inca Trail. My heart pounded. My head felt as if it might explode. Putting one foot in front of the other took all my will. At this elevation, oxygen deprivation was a threat, and chewing astringent coca leaves, a local remedy for mild altitude sickness, didn’t give me the slightest relief.…

beneath the (conveyor) belt

Some of the best ideas arise from a desire for more money earned in less time—and are possibly fueled by alcohol. Such was the case with conveyor-belt sushi, or kaiten-sushi, a worldwide yet underrated dining phenomenon that embodies everything about the Way We Eat Now: reasonably nutritious food served in an inexpensive, inclusive way that requires no special knowledge while employing of-the-minute technology, a frictionless commerce model, and a sense of dining as entertainment suitable for all ages. Here’s how it began: In 1947, Osaka restaurateur Yoshiaki Shiraishi visited an Asahi factory and observed a winding stream of beer bottles floating across the brewery’s filling floor on a conveyor belt. How many more customers could he serve at his standup sushi bar, he wondered, if he were to install such a…

cloudy with a chance of funk

Most people don’t even recognize this wine as prosecco,” says Luca Ferraro of Bele Casel winery, an organically farmed family estate in Asolo, Italy, just over an hour’s drive northwest of Venice. Hazy with sediment, the wine certainly doesn’t resemble typical prosecco, that crisp, clean, quintessentially carefree breed of bubbly. But as Ferraro is quick to point out, this is “the real prosecco.” He’s talking about prosecco col fondo (meaning “with its bottom” or “with sediment”), an unfiltered, lightly effervescent, bottle-fermented expression of prosecco, produced with the deposit of spent yeast cells intact. Markedly drier, yeastier, and more savory than conventional versions of the wine, it has been produced in and around the rolling hills of Asolo, which, along with the towns of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, constitutes the wine’s ancestral home.…

three col fondo to find

Traditionally, col fondo would be decanted to clear the sediment, but today, many prefer to drink it as cloudy as it comes. Ca’ dei Zago Prosecco Col Fondo, $20 Sourced from old vines planted high up in the terraced slopes of Valdobbiadene and produced by the Zago family for five generations, this signature, biodynamic wine clocks in at a refreshing 10% alcohol and offers a textbook introduction to the style. Costadilà Bianco dei Colli Trevigiani 330 slm, $24 Among the first expressions of col fondo to gain attention in the United States, Costadilà’s labels are named according the altitude at which the grapes are grown. Round, yeasty, and pear scented, the 330 slm is an ideal accompaniment to prosciutto and other cured meats. Zanotto Col Fondo, $20 With its inherent salinity and fresh core…

left overs

Leftovers are the neglected stepchild of the food world. If something was not the intended outcome, if it was not the reason for cooking in the first place, how can it be any good? Very easily. On Christmas Eve I glaze a huge ham in honey and mustard and soy—a bigger piece than my family could ever hope to eat as cold cuts—and roast it fiercely until it’s the color of a lacquered Chinese box. I’m excited about eating it simply in slices as it cools, and perhaps for the few days that follow. But after that, it’s time for thick slabs to go into the pan until they’re the color of copper kitchen pans, to be eaten with fried eggs. Cubes of it are braised in chicken stock, the meaty…

history of the fork

Symbol of Sin EUROPE, 11TH CENTURY On the eve of her wedding to the Doge of Venice, Theodora Anna Doukaina, a Byzantine princess, introduces Europe to the fork—a tiny golden implement with which to eat sweet-meats and candied fruits. The Church is aghast. Are her God-given hands not good enough? It deems the tines a pretentious indulgence, casting the fork as sinful and eff eminate—a charge which lingers for several centuries. How the Fork Saved Thailand THAILAND, 1800S As Europe greedily colonizes Thailand’s neighbors, King Mongkut (left) modernizes his kingdom to prevent political takeover. In addition to Mongkut’s eff orts to Westernize military strategies, advance women’s rights, and invite in Western business, his brother leads the adoption of Western cutlery. The fork, it’s said, “saves” Thailand from colonization. Silverware Sovereignty UNITED STATES, 1837 “If you wish to imitate…