Travel + Leisure March 2021

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

United States
Meredith Operations Corporation
12 期号


letter from the editor

CONTRIBUTORS 1. Jason Fulford and Tamara Shopsin INTO THE WOODS (P. 96) Northern California’s splendors are on full display at the Sea Ranch, a unique coastal community built in the 1960s. “The area has an exotic appeal—the smells of eucalyptus, redwoods, and ocean spray; the fresh oysters; the whole natural landscape,” says Fulford, a photographer who, with his writer-illustrator partner, Tamara Shopsin, splits his time between Scranton, Pennsylvania, and New York City. 2. Carol Sachs COME WIND, COME WEATHER (P. 80) The Scottish Hebrides are known for their dramatic topography. Sachs, a photographer based in London and Milan, was awed by their beauty, especially during a trying year: “The freedom of being on the road all day, after being in lockdown for so long, and watching the light and weather change constantly on those wild landscapes,…

it’s all happening in oaxaca

A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL FOR DESIGN ENTHUSIASTS, there are few places in the world that compare to Oaxaca, where black clay pottery, Indigenous textiles, and ornate alebrijes (wooden figures) are among the many treasures for which the area is known. But it never had the accommodations to match. That’s starting to change now that a group of homegrown creatives have pivoted into hospitality, injecting the scene with energy and authenticity. In the center of Oaxaca City, Mexican architect Luis Carbonell has transformed a landmarked 16th-century mansion into the 14-room Grana B&B (; doubles from $95). Carbonell has preserved many of the building’s original flourishes, including red tile flooring, arched passageways, and a sunny interior courtyard where guests can enjoy a breakfast of café de olla and chilaquiles. A…

new in the neighborhood

ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL Anchoring the avenue is this beautifully restored 19th-century food hall that reopened in 2020 after a four-year renovation. Inside, find merchants like Lisa Elmqvist, fishmonger to the royal family, and artisanal-cheese maker Arla Unika. VILLA DAGMAR Opening in March, this 70-room hotel is the first sibling property of the ultra-luxe Hotel Diplomat—and the refined aesthetic of that property is evident in the bright, light-filled interiors punctuated by vintage sideboards, jewel-toned velvet armchairs, and antique wallpaper. Other draws include a flower shop, a traditional Nordic spa with a batsu (Swedish sauna), and direct access via passageway to the Östermalms Saluhall.; doubles from $345. BAGERI INGRID The lunchtime line at this hidden-gem bakery snakes down the block, with Swedes patiently waiting for steaming cups of split-pea soup, thick squares of fudgy apple cake,…

goings-on in ghana

IN 2019, GHANA MADE headlines when it debuted its first national pavilion at the Venice Biennale, designed by celebrated Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye. The groundbreaking exhibition displayed sculptures, paintings, and photographs from six artists of Ghanaian descent in a curving, ocher-colored space resembling a Gurunsi earth house, a traditional dwelling made from a mix of clay, soil, and straw. That same year, thousands of foreign tourists touched down in the capital city, Accra, for the Year of Return, a campaign aimed at reuniting members of the African diaspora in commemoration of the 400th anniversary of the landing of enslaved people in the United States. The multiday event was a celebration of the pan-African experience, with film screenings, poetry readings, and a concert so ambitious it was billed as Afrochella. The…

a special cut

FOR A PROFESSION so proudly old-fashioned as tailoring, embracing change of any kind can be a tall order. But over the past year, with formal events and business travel canceled, menswear specialists have had to make drastic alterations, many involving 21st-century innovations. Brooklyn-based tailor David Hart ( is one of a handful of tailors now offering fittings online as well as in person. Michael Andrews (, who has a shop in NoHo, and the team at midtown’s Cad & the Dandy ( also pivoted to virtual fittings when COVID-19 hit. Like his peers, Hart has a process that begins with a video consultation—he uses Zoom or Google Hangouts—during which he’ll coach his customer on how to take a few dozen measurements. Fabric swatches are sent to the client via mail, kicking…

get centered in socal

THE COURTS, BORREGO SPRINGS A missed turn led former New Yorkers Adil Dara and Leah Goren to this quirky tennis club on the outskirts of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, 90 minutes south of Palm Springs. The previous owners were looking to sell to a young buyer with the energy to breathe life into the place. And Dara and Goren—an art director and an illustrator, respectively—were up for the job. Take lessons on candy-colored courts with installations by artists like Ethan Cook and Tim Lahan, swim laps in the pool, and hang in the adobe-style clubhouse, which is kitted out with vintage rugs and pin-striped sofas. If you want to make a weekend out of it, book a stay at one of two restored vintage trailers on site.; doubles from $130. HAVEN…