Travel + Leisure September 2021

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

United States
Meredith Operations Corporation
12 期号


letter from the editor

CONTRIBUTORS 1. Adam Erace BELLE OF THE BALKANS (P. 86) “Istria, Croatia, carried an aura—languorous, ancient, decidedly un–jet set—that toppled my expectations in the best way,” the writer says about his spring reporting trip. Erace found himself moved by the fact that he, “an American, was traveling abroad again.” The East Coast–based Erace’s latest book, The Cocktail Workshop (Running Press), hits shelves next month. 2. Anna Petrow SECRET SAUCE (P. 94) Petrow was thrilled to shoot the food scene in her hometown of Kansas City, Missouri, for this issue. “We have a beautiful ‘community over competition’ mentality here that particularly shines through in the hospitality industry,” she says. “All the folks I met are big cheerleaders for each other.” 3. Fafris Mustafa A FULL PLATE (P. 48) The London-born photographer became aware of Hainanese Western food on one of…

oregon, on the bubble

This season, T+L is celebrating the simple pleasures of gathering around a table—or even just getting together again. Sample these trip-worthy tastings, big-ticket hotel openings, and memorable spots for a soul-nourishing family reunion. A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY is known for its sought-after Pinot Noir, and increasingly, for Chardonnay—the two main base grapes used to make champagne. Now, after decades of quiet development, local winemakers are creating traditional méthode champenoise wines and creative pét-nats with an “only-in-Oregon” feel, priming the state to become a world leader in sparkling production. Since many of these bottles are small-batch or limited releases, the ideal (and sometimes, the only) way to try them is to visit. Read on for some of the best, all within an easy hour’s drive from…

a global table

“WHERE ARE WE going today? And what are we going to eat?” This was a daily refrain for Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch, the founders of the New York–based design firm Roman & Williams (, during their 14 months of isolation in Montauk, at the tip of Long Island. The couple are well known for creating spaces that are at once immersive and theatrical—like Veronika, the restaurant at Manhattan’s Fotografiska photography museum, which is reminiscent of the grand cafés of Europe. In a normal year, they would spend some 200 days on the road overseeing design projects, sourcing their wares, and meeting artisans around the world. So when lockdown hit, instead of spinning into a Groundhog Day–esque meal-planning cycle, the pair decided to bring their favorite places to life at the…

shore leave

AS OUR SEAPLANE swooped in to land at Emerald Maldives Resort & Spa, my kids pressed their faces against the windows. We could see palm trees, a white-sand beach, and a long crescent of overwater bungalows hanging above the glassy sea off the Raa Atoll. “I can’t wait to stay in one of those little rooms,” said my 11-year-old son, Apollo. I replied with a vague smile, prompting my defense-attorney wife, Courtenay, to ask: “Um, honey, what exactly is the room situation?” I felt my face get a little hotter. “You did get us an overwater bungalow,” she shouted over the roar of the engine, “didn’t you?” I had been so busy in the weeks leading up to the vacation, I had totally forgotten to ask what kind of accommodation we’d have. I gulped as…

the spice of life

NEW YORK SHUK Warm, rosy baharat for a big bowl of couscous. Earthy hawaij for fresh Yemeni coffee. And, of course, za’atar ($10)—the pungent blend of Syrian oregano, sumac, and sesame that can be found on tables from Jeddah to Jerusalem. New York Shuk cofounders Leetal and Ron Arazi draw on their family’s roots in Morocco, Lebanon, Israel, and Turkey (and now, New York City) to bring the fundamentals of a Middle Eastern pantry to a wider audience. BURLAP & BARREL This company, cofounded by Ethan Frisch and Ori Zohar, specializes in single-origin spices from small farms and cooperatives around the world, like a savory-sweet smoked pimentón paprika ($8) from the Spanish region of Extremadura. In 2021, Burlap & Barrel is releasing a new product about once a week: look out for…

that’s the spirit

TWO THINGS you can expect in Oaxaca: a warm welcome, and plenty of mezcal. And that’s especially true at Casa Silencio, a six-suite hotel that opened this summer on the grounds of the modernist Mezcal El Silencio distillery in Xaaga. Founders Fausto Zapata and Vicente Cisneros tapped Mexican architect Alejandro D’Acosta, known for his work in the Valle de Guadalupe, to design the property—the first high-end hotel to open in a working Oaxacan mezcal operation—with interiors by designer Martina D’Acosta that feature Oaxacan textiles, furniture, and artwork by local painters and sculptors. Outside? Nine-and-a-half acres of sunbaked, mountainous desertscape. Both originally from Mexico City, Zapata and Cisneros grew up visiting Oaxaca with friends and family: spontaneous weekends full of great food and even better mezcal. “We always looked forward to eating and…