Travel + Leisure November 2021

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

United States
Meredith Operations Corporation
12 期号


letter from the editor

Contributors CLARA TUMA ALPINE AVANT-GARDE (P. 102) Tuma, who’s based in Switzerland, fell for the Engadine Valley’s farm-style art galleries and houses—especially the hand-carved sgraffito walls—while photographing the area for this issue. “The architecture is eye candy,” she says. PETER TERZIAN CATSKILLS CALLING “We had a breakneck trip,” T+L’s features editor says of his time reporting in the Catskills. “So it was especially nice at the end of our visit to sit on the porch at the DeBruce, a hotel with an incredible restaurant, and sample course after course of thoughtfully made food.” TARA DONNE CATSKILLS CALLING (P. 108) Hudson Valley–based Donne spent a few October days photographing fall foliage in the Catskills. “It’s fun to drive around an area you are familiar with but to look at it with a different lens and an eye toward storytelling,” she…

heritage, by hand

A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL SOME OF THE world’s most beautiful, intricate baskets are made in northwestern Ghana, not far from the Burkina Faso border. Here, over hundreds of years, the Gurunsi people have perfected the art of twisting and entwining the tough elephant grass that grows in the marshes and streams. The Baba Tree Basket Co., based in the town of Bolgatanga, brings this work to an international stage. Founded by Canadian-born Gregory MacCarthy, who has spent most of the past 20 years in Ghana, the impact-focused company commissions baskets from a cooperative of more than 250 artists at fair-trade prices, and provides training for students interested in learning the technique. When a basket is sold online, the weaver receives an additional portion of the sale, up to…

women about town

IN HISTORIC CAIRO, you don’t just see the sights—you feel them. Between the whoosh of cyclists and the wafting scent of piping-hot flatbread, my senses couldn’t keep up. “Ready for a snack?” asked my guide, Asmaa Khattab. I obviously wasn’t the first of her clients to be both dazzled and disoriented by this corner of the city. The cobblestoned maze of mosques and monuments dates back to the 10th century—the largest collection of medieval architecture in the Islamic world. But such relics were only half of the story. Our walking tour was also an introduction to a cultural shift that’s reshaping the visitor experience in Egypt. Expanding beyond the classic Pyramids-and-Sphinx tourism model, young guides are bringing travelers to lesser-visited locales like this UNESCO-protected neighborhood, pairing the country’s millennia of history with…

setting the standard

NIARRA TRAVEL When planning trips to Africa, many travelers don’t realize that commissions of up to 35 percent are paid to large tour operators by the local hospitality industry. Niarra Travel, based in London, has committed to reducing its commissions to 10 percent when referring clients to local businesses, like northern Kenya’s Reteti Elephant Sanctuary, which employs community members as keepers (like Naomi Leshongoro, right). This leaves more funds for the places and communities who need them most—and honors the concept of niarra, the Swahili word for “with utmost purpose.” ETERNAL LANDSCAPES MONGOLIA Women have typically been excluded from meaningful roles in Mongolia’s tourism sector, but Eternal Landscapes aims to change that. The company—which offers adventure journeys throughout the country, including treks on horse or camel—recently launched a 15-day women-only trip led…

st. croix shine

CARIBBEAN-BOUND travelers looking to expand their jewelry collections should make a beeline for St. Croix, where every other islander seems to be wearing at least one hook bracelet, if not several. The classic version of this Crucian icon comes from Sonya’s (, which has been a fixture in Christiansted, the island’s largest town, since 1964. Sonya Hough’s original design—a horseshoe shape, like the bottom bracelet in the image above—is said to recall the wristlets that fishermen’s wives would fashion from fish hooks as a reminder of their husbands at sea. Now under new ownership, the compact boutique still heaves with customers jostling for position at the display cases; it often sells more than 200 hand-hammered bracelets a day. After finding your match, take a lesson from the staff on how to wear…

people power

ZUNI, WITH 12,500 Indigenous residents, is the largest of the 19 pueblos, the state’s traditional Native American villages—and one of the most remote. The 1,300-year-old settlement in the Colorado Plateau, at the foot of the Dowa Yalanne mesa, is home to adobe houses, archaeological sites, and thousands of petroglyphs. Most of the area’s modern economy is based on traditional craft: woven textiles, painted pottery, inlaid mosaic jewelry. Until recently, visitors to Zuni were few due to its location and lack of infrastructure. Young people were moving out for much the same reason, drawn to jobs in larger cities. But pueblo leaders saw potential in tourism—not only to generate revenue but also to increase awareness of Zuni culture and its role in U.S. history. Now the pueblo is developing a responsible-tourism model…