Travel + Leisure December/January 2022

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

United States
Meredith Operations Corporation
12 期号


letter from the editor

Contributors PETER TARASIUK REMOTE LEARNING (P. 170) “Nothing can prepare you for what Macquarie is like,” says the photographer, who visited the far-flung Subantarctic island on a Ponant expedition cruise. “This is what earth must have been like before humans—king penguins walk right up to you and peck your boots without any fear.” Tarasiuk lives in Melbourne. JULEKHA DASH LIQUID SUNSHINE (P. 49) As a Francophile and fan of all orange drinks, the writer, who reported on L’Orangerie, a liqueur made in Monaco, got to pursue two interests at once. Plus, she says, “I enjoyed putting some of my French-speaking skills to use while interviewing distillery owner Philip Culazzo.” She lives in Baltimore. ALEX TEMBLADOR BEYOND THE BORDER, BEYOND THE OBVIOUS (P. 116) “There have been conversations in the U.S. surrounding race, colonialism, and privilege these past two years,”…

back on the farm

A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL THE RESTAURANT appears out of nowhere. One moment you’re driving in a safari vehicle, scanning the scrubby, red-earth landscape of South Africa’s Kalahari Desert for aardvarks and wild dogs. The next, a chalky-white building appears under a boscia tree. A terrace juts out from the 100-year-old farmhouse, with tables draped in pressed white cloths and waiters with crystal glasses on silver trays. It’s as though you’ve stumbled upon a movie set. This near-mirage is the first of many surprises that await diners at Klein Jan, the new restaurant at Tswalu, a privately owned game reserve near the Botswana border that’s also home to two safari camps. No one would have thought a star chef would open a restaurant in such a remote setting—not even…

antigua, by design

WHAT TANYA WILLOCK and Temidra Willock-Morsch remember most from their first trip to Antigua is the fruit trees—mangoes, bananas, and coconuts—in their grandparents’ yard. “I remember seeing my grandfather cut a coconut with a machete and just drink straight out of it,” Tanya recalls. “It’s a different way of living,” Temidra adds. “There’s an ease there. Everyone is so relaxed.” The sisters infused that island sensibility into Hidden Gem (, the boutique they opened in 2019 in Southampton, close to their hometown of East Hampton. Tanya, who studied fine art and photography, and Temidra, who went to school for fashion design and started her own textile company in 2014, agreed the store should reflect both their Long Island roots and their Antiguan heritage. “We want this space to be authentically us,”…

at world’s edge

IT’S NO EASY FEAT to build tourism infrastructure in Antarctica. But the transportation and staffing logistics, and the strict environmental regulations, haven’t stopped polar explorers Robyn and Patrick Woodhead, who have been tackling the challenge for more than 15 years with their tour company, White Desert. In 2017, the wife-and-husband team created the continent’s first private jet runway (they remake it every season on the millennia-old blue ice). Soon after that, they opened Whichaway—Antarctica’s first luxury camp, 90 miles away, which looks out over the lakes at Schirmacher Oasis. Their latest project: Wolf Fang’s Camp, debuting this month in a rarely seen area of the continent. The camp’s six solar-heated canvas tents have views of its eponymous mountain: one of a cluster of rock pillars rising up to 3,000 feet above…

all about abq

1 SAWMILL MARKET This food hall occupies the soaring former warehouse of the Frank Paxton Lumber Co. Stop by for snacks (from arepas and banh mi to a classic New Mexico breakfast burrito), plus local beers and wines, live music in the courtyard, and even mixology and culinary classes. 2 HOTEL CHACO The design mission of this 118-key property is to pay tribute to New Mexico at every possible turn. The lobby calls to mind the kivas—circular rooms used for ceremonial purposes—at Chaco Canyon, a massive Puebloan archaeological complex northwest of the city. Common spaces are filled with art from each of the state’s 19 pueblos; flights of regional wine are served in the lounge; and in case you need a reminder of where you are, the rooftop restaurant has some of…

wide-open spaces

IN THE 1990S, outdoor-world power couple Kristine McDivitt Tompkins (former CEO of clothing brand Patagonia) and Douglas Tompkins (founder of the North Face and Esprit) began buying large swaths of land in Chile and Argentina for conservation purposes. In 2018, three years after Douglas’s death, the couple’s nonprofit, Tompkins Conservation, struck a deal with the Chilean government: it would donate more than 1 million acres of its land back to the public, as long as the government promised to set aside additional territory and create a chain of national parks. Chile ended up matching the contribution ninefold—and five new parks were born, including Patagonia National Park, a stretch of 750,000 pristine acres of mountains, glaciers, lakes, and grasslands along the country’s southern tip. As of October, the park is operated by…