Climbing June/July 2018

In 1990, I belayed Boone Speed on the FA of I’ll Take Black, a 5.12c on the Malvado Wall at the Hell area in American Fork (AF), Utah. Speed was a founding father at AF and later became the first American to establish 5.14b. We were in the early years of sport climbing, when clipping bolts was still fresh and exciting, like opening the biggest box under the Christmas tree. Some of my first road trips, to areas like Smith Rock and AF, brought me face-to-face with the pioneers of that pivotal era. At AF, I watched as the rockstars—people like Speed, whom I’d only seen before in magazines—flung themselves at the steeps. A revolution was happening, and I feel lucky to have witnessed it. Of course, much has changed since…

• PETER BEAL Peter Beal (“The Classic 25,” detailing America’s top boulder problems, p.56) first bouldered on the Maine coast years ago. From Peak District gritstone to Front Range sandstone, he’s enjoyed the sport and published extensively on it, including a 2011 how-to with The Mountaineers Books. • MEGAN WALSH After a few years in the travel industry, Megan Walsh (“It Starts at Impossible,” a history of American Fork Canyon, Utah, p.68) shifted her focus to her true passion: the outdoors. She now works for The Dyrt, a camping-app startup. As a rule, she prefers whiskey to box wine. • JARED VAGY Dr. Jared Vagy (“Prep Wrists and Fingers to Send,” p.34), a doctor of physical therapy and an experienced climber, has devoted his career to climbing-related injury prevention, orthopedics, and movement science. He authored…

FEELING THE PAIN I was excited to read about Hazel Findlay’s experience with persistent shoulder pain in No. 360. As a longtime climber and a physician assistant in Michigan with a history of persistent pain, my professional passion is teaching people about pain and helping them reduce their own suffering. As many as one in three people suffer from persistent pain, and there is so much groundbreaking research about how to help. Unfortunately, the US medical-industrial complex is badly mismanaging pain. The only way I see to effect change is to educate people on a grassroots level. LIZ PEPPIN, PA-C, VIA EMAIL WOMEN CRUSHING I’ve been climbing for about 10 years and fighting male dominance the whole time. Robert Branch (Unsolicited Beta, No. 360) just gave me the single greatest motivation to f*cking crush…

“Creating art has always been my passion, and it was just a matter of time before climbing made its way into my work,” says the 33-year-old Russia native and now Bay Area resident Eric Digilov, who started climbing six years ago when his then girlfriend (now wife) took him to a Los Angeles rock gym. He soon climbed outdoors at Stoney Point, Horse Flats, and Red Rock, falling in love with the culture. An IT worker by trade, Digilov uses climbing photos to inspire his artwork. “I try to capture that moment when you’re climbing and you’re at peace with the world,” said Digilov. “Still looking for the best way to represent my love for climbing culture in my art, but I think I’m on the right track.” FOLLOW @DIGILOV3 AND…

Matthias Gabbalier on Blasphemy, Hawaii 5-0 Wall. Matthias climbed this 5.11 39 times during his time on Cat Ba, Vietnam. LUCA DE GIORGI Colm Shannon making the first ascent of The Jelly Situation (5.13a/b or S1/2) at Ailladie on the west coast of Ireland. JOSH WILLETT Katrina Wan-Zaid hanging from the last move of a 5.9 at the Becket Quarry in Western Massachusetts. BRIAN LEWIS The funniest part of soloing off Mallorca’s Punta des Jonc was the tourists staring in puzzlement as we walked off the cliff edge. KATE KELLEGHAN This Tenerife blowhole is only climbable on calm days—otherwise, you can get swallowed if you don’t get through it quickly enough. ZAC IMHOOF The beginning of this 5.10 requires tech movement on crimp rails that elevates your heartbeat at the thought of pitching. SAVOEUN HEANG The water beneath Jakub was choppy and…

You’ve just made the second ascent of a difficult climb. Do you:* FULFILL YOUR MORAL OBLIGATION AND RATE THE CLIMB AS ACCURATELY AS POSSIBLE 80.5% 5% DOWNRATE A FULL NUMBER AND CALL IT “ATHLETIC FOR THE GRADE” TAKE THE FIRST ASCENTIONIST’S GRADE ON YOUR 8A.NU SCORECARD, BUT CALL IT “SOFTER THAN CHARMIN” EVERYWHERE ELSE 6.3% 2.6% UPGRADE TO FILL OUT THE TOP OF THE PYRAMID ON YOUR 8A.NU SCORECARD 6.6% Other (E.g., “Upgrade it and submit a picture of myself on the route to Climbing”) *Based on 379 responses “Everyone has their own reasons for the grade they take. For me, wanting to lead by example for women, I would rather grade as honestly as possible! This is also why I don’t chase climbs with big numbers that just suit my style. I actually seek out the…