Conde Nast Traveler December 2019

IN OCTOBER, ONSTAGE in our New York office as part of our annual summit, Points of View, I interviewed the amazing Francis Ford Coppola—director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now, but also a lover of life and embracer of all its delights. He owns vineyards and cannabis businesses, runs a literary magazine, and is behind a portfolio of hotels in Central and South America—as well as Palazzo Margherita in Italy—known for local engagement, sustainability, and being gorgeous. Eighty years old and in the best shape of his life, he is also the most vibrant and uplifting storyteller. Here’s a taste of our conversation. M.S.: I spent the weekend not exploring the streets of New York but rewatching many of your movies. I planned to rewatch them all, but it turns out…

THE L.A. WEEKENDER CATALINA ISLAND, CALIFORNIA Los Angeles and gridlock are virtually synonymous. But in Avalon, a hamlet of 4,000 people on Catalina, built a hundred years ago by chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr., you’re more likely to find yourself riding in a golf cart (there’s a 25-year wait list for a vehicle permit). Or take an ATV tour through the rugged interior with the hopes of spotting the island’s herd of wild bison. Many Angelenos, who on a clear day can see the green- and yellow-grass-covered speck 30 miles off the coast, think of Catalina as little more than a place where Boy Scouts go camping and rich people dock their sailboats. But this year brings new reasons to catch the 60-minute ferry from Long Beach. In August the seaside…

Puerto Rico has shown its grit this year, with mass street rallies protesting against the governor. That same spirit fuels its distinct culture, which is full of flavor and flair. You find it in the music, via salsa and plena and the beats of reggaeton, a style of hip-hop created in the late ’90s and now a worldwide sensation. You taste it in the food, with its blend of Taino, African, and Spanish influences. And you see it in the arts, in the haunting graphics of José R. Alicea. Its capital, San Juan, has one of the most beautiful historic districts in the Americas, and eclectic restaurants, bars, and stores. The best way to explore it is through the eyes of the creatives putting it on the cultural radar. SERGIO VAZQUEZ THE…

When Cyclone Debbie tore through Australia’s Whitsunday Islands in March 2017, the storm left wispy white-sand isles thrashed, hotels destroyed, and renowned natural wonders like the Great Barrier Reef and Whitehaven Beach in ruin. With losses to the tourism industry estimated at $114.5 million, the event could have wrought lasting damage. But just two years on, the islands are back. The revival began with a mega-makeover of palm-fringed Airlie Beach, unveiled in June: A sleek new waterfront promenade, bursting with restaurants and markets, has allowed the formerly backpacker-filled beach town to pivot from being a regional jump-off point to a destination unto itself. New and improved hotels, too, have perked up the area’s prospects, with adults-only wellness retreat Elysian opening in March. The 20-guest escape brings unprecedented exclusivity to the…

In an ironic twist, Tribeca, long one of Manhattan’s priciest enclaves, has returned to its roots as a haven for artists—though this time with deeper pockets. To the north in Chelsea, ground zero for the New York gallery scene, the High Line and the nearby $25 billion Hudson Yards development have sent rents skyrocketing, prompting some of the neighborhood’s leading lights to seek a new home. In the past year 25 galleries have relocated to a seven-block wedge of cobblestone streets and stately former industrial buildings south of Canal. Contemporary dealer Andrew Kreps arrived in spring, followed by former neighbor James Cohan and the Lower East Side stalwart Canada, with heavy hitter PPOW to follow in 2020. And the rest of the neighborhood is keeping pace: In March the Tribeca…

St. Barts couldn’t be allowed to fade away after Hurricane Irma in 2017—there was too much at stake, too many collective memories stacked up like oyster shells on this perfect trifecta of sand, superyacht chic, and insouciance. The comeback has already unshuttered fresh incarnations of Hotel Christopher, Manapany, and Le Sereno. Family-size Le Guanahani comes next, in October 2020, with ramped-up menus and a pool, while the effortlessly discreet Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, which reopened last December, follows up this month with new rooms, a five-bedroom exclusive-use villa, and a restaurant from Jean Imbert, whose other addresses include Miami’s Swan. But all eyes are also on the return of the island’s original five-star Eden Rock this November, reimagined by London-based design maximalist Martin Brudnizki. Additions include Villa Nina, kitted…