Conde Nast Traveler October 2020

I was based in London during lockdown. And when it was lifted, my family and I traveled to Greece, to an island where my husband has been going since he was a boy. It’s basic here; there’s barely any hot water, certainly no air-conditioning. By day the cicadas hammer out their battery-gun drawl; at night dogs bark in the village. We wondered endlessly about how ethical it was to come at all. The Greeks have had few cases of COVID-19, and there is something distinctly unsettling about posing a threat in human form. At night I lay in bed and wondered about my place in the world, my ability to tread upon it with good conscience. The island itself, however, feels the same. It’s a place Greeks go; outsiders have always…

This last summer, Andres Ossa and his wife, Paola Dradá, reopened their eco-reserve Bosque Colibri in careful accordance with the government’s new biosafety protocol, developed to control the spread of COVID-19. Now, at their 35-acre spread outside of Cali, the legendary salsa-dancing capital about 300 miles southwest of Bogotá, the couple take visitors’ temperatures, disinfect their hands and shoes, and ask them to wear face masks and follow social distancing guidelines. Along with the protocol, Colombia’s Ministry of Trade, Industry, and Tourism created a biosafety seal (the first of its kind in Latin America) that aims to promote responsible tourism and ease travelers’ safety concerns; businesses that certify they’re following the measures are permitted to display it. “We have to be even more conscious about how we’re living,” says Ossa about…