Conde Nast Traveler January/February 2022

I write these words days after pictures were published showing airline staff at London’s Heathrow wearing kitschy patriotic American regalia and waving American flags as they ushered America-bound travelers toward security. On this side, there were images of couples embracing for the first time in nearly two years that packed every bit as much of an emotional wallop as Alfred Eisenstaedt’s legendary photograph “V-J Day in Times Square.” I care as much about foreign travelers’ ability to visit my country as I do about my own ability to visit theirs, so this moment was one of joy, tears, and relief that we continue to make slow, incremental progress toward a better future. You’ll be reading these words in the last days of 2021, or perhaps the early days of 2022. I…

Join us on Europe’s spectacular waterways and discover historic lands of culture and heritage. On board our award-winning Space-Ships you’ll cruise in luxurious and spacious surrounds — the ideal way to wrap yourself in the enchanting allure of Europe. With a choice of dining venues and beverages, and exclusive, personalized experiences, this is truly all-inclusive river cruising done your way. When it comes to an unforgettable journey, the Scenic route is always best. Special offers on 2022 and 2023 seasons available for booking. Contact your Professional Travel Advisor, call us at 833-651-6892 or visit scenicusa.com…

Overnight train travel has been booming. The renewed popularity of this atavistic form of transportation might seem puzzling, until you consider travelers’ growing appetite for all things slow and immersive—and their increased awareness of their own environmental impact. Take France, which recently banned short-haul flights in response to the European Green Deal, an ambitious plan to reduce transport emissions by 90 percent by 2050. That leaves sleeper trains as an easy alternative—especially after 2021’s “Year of Rail” initiative, designed to harmonize connections across the Continent. Several European state-owned or subsidized railways are leading the charge with new clean-energy trains and expanded service. France’s Ministry of Transport invested over 100 million euros in SNCF, the state-run railroad, to modernize sleeper cabins. The result: comfortable seats and beds, reliable Wi-Fi, and novel routes,…

With its white-jacketed staff and glamour crowd sipping martinis, the American Bar at the Hotel Savoy has been one of those lost-intime London treasures for more than a century. But when it reopened last fall, it had gotten a makeover thanks to new head bartender Shannon Tebay, the first actual American ever to take the helm of the legendary watering hole. The 36-year-old mixologist, who previously ran New York’s pioneering Death & Co., has set out to work within tradition rather than to scrap it. “People describe my style as ‘dynamic minimalism,’” she says, “which means classic-drink templates with unexpected, often wacky flavor combinations.” Her menu includes cocktails like the Ivory Nickoll; named for longtime American Bar pianist Jon Nickoll, it’s a bit like a Rob Roy but with smoky, tropical…

For more than a quarter of a century, the name Dubai has conjured images of big money, fast cars, and sleek towers rising from the sands symbolizing the Emirate’s international ambitions. During that time, nearly every major player in fashion, restaurants, and hotels has wanted a piece of the action there. Consequently, the City of Gold has emerged as a global hub of travel and thought leadership—both of which are currently represented in the pavilions of the pandemic-delayed Expo 2020 Dubai, on view through the end of March, which explores the future of life on Earth. Later this year, the Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, the new sibling to Atlantis, The Palm, will open, seeking to establish a more sustainable model for ultra-luxury resorts. There’s also fresh thinking in the…

For years, titans like Bottura, Boulud, Robuchon, and Ramsay defined the dining scene here. Though big-name outposts are still opening (including blinged-out Japanese fusion Sushi Samba two months ago), a more homegrown approach is also emerging. On the peaceful shores of Umm Suqeim's Fishing Harbor 2 lies the tiny Dibba Bay Oysters, where in-the-know locals share platters of Fujairah oysters while gazing at bobbing fishing boats and blood-orange sunsets. In the Greens neighborhood is Kinoya: Born out of chef Neha Mishra’s soldout supper club, it is now a low-key Japanese izakaya-and-ramen room where slurping is encouraged. Local restaurateur Mahmood Al Khamis went big on something small with his trendy warehouse-style pizzeria Moon Slice, which opened early last year. Even with all these casual newcomers, there are still plenty of openings where…