Olive Magazine July 2017

We Brits have always been good at eating on the hoof – we invented sandwiches and pasties, for goodness sake – but over the past few years we’ve really been upping the ante in our hand-held food options. Street food has never been better, more authentic or innovative, more diverse or available. And so, ’tis the season to get street smart, whether that means exploring the shacks serving lobster rolls on the beaches of Devon or the sheds delivering vegetable lollies to the happy revellers at Camp Bestival in Dorset. It could also mean letting yourself be tempted by the truck handing out fried buttermilk chicken burgers in Edinburgh, or even making your own. We have all the bases covered in this issue. How do you like the look of our cover…

Buffalo dog 30 MINUTES I MAKES 41 EASY Twisted toppings for hot dogs are all the rage on street food stalls and in trendy restaurants. We took the best flavourings from buffalo chicken wings to add to our dog. celery 1 stick, cut into tiny dice red onion ½, cut into tiny dice caster sugar a pinch white wine vinegar 1 tsp butter 2 tbsp of melted hot sauce such as Frank's hot dog buns 4 jumbo hot dogs 4 tomato ketchup 4 tbsp BLUE CHEESE SAUCE roquefort 50g, crumbled soured cream 75g mayonnaise 1 tbsp DEEP-FRIED PICKLED JALAPENOS plain flour 25g cornflour 7g, plus extra to dust hot smoked paprika ¼ tsp ice-cold soda water oil for frying sliced pickled jalapeños 2 tbsp, drained and dried on kitchen paper • Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Mix the celery and red onion with a pinch of salt, the sugar and the…

FOOD DIRECTOR’S SHOPPING BASKET Janine Ratcliffe’s favourite new products I love a clever cheat, and this mix from top London restaurant St John is a superior one. It’s Fergus Henderson’s favourite rarebit recipe ready for you to spread on hot toast and grill until bubbling. You could also use it to top fillets of smoked haddock, as a baked spud filling, or as the base of a cheesy, pickley flatbread as we’ve done here. ocado.com and rarebitmix.com , 250g/£4.99 TREND SPOT SHELL OUT! Oysters have come back onto menus with gusto recently. No longer are these brackish bivalve beauties the preserve of the rich, only to be enjoyed with fizz and fuss, chefs are now sharing them with us all year round. Search menus for the different varieties available and the different ways they can be…

Decatur’s Tom Browne has been selling buttery, piquant barbecued oysters at Druid Street Market in Bermondsey for several years, as well as at his temporary home in Dalston. We’re big fans of his soulful Southern cooking – these are made with a whipped garlic and pecorino butter, and finished with parsley, cajun spices and hot sauce. @DecaturLondon London seafood merchants, Wright Bros Ltd (who have their own sustainable oyster farm on the Helford River in Cornwall) serve an assortment of oysters (up to 15) from across the UK and France in a variety of ways at their five London restaurants. Try the Rockefeller, which is grilled with a spinach and herb butter. thewrightbrothers.co.uk During the summer, shucking specialists The Oystermen barbecue Maldon oysters – “not too big, with soft meat” – with…

Valrhona Orelys These caramelised white chocolate and Mauritian dark muscovado sugar tablets are meant for cooking, but we can’t resist melting them straight on our tongues or over ice cream for a posh Caramac hit. £48.68/3kg, valrhona-chocolate.com Maître Choux Paris Brest éclair If you happen to live near South Kensington, you’re in for a treat with this new praline cream and crunchy nougatine-filled choux pastry bun topped with hazelnut praline cream and nougatine biscuit. £5.80 per éclair, Maître Choux South Kensington, London SW7 The Collective Dairy strawberry and mascarpone yogurt The Collective Dairy has done it again! We love this summery flavour with balsamic-soaked strawberry compote cut through rich, creamy yogurt. Perfect as an after-dinner treat. £2/450g, Waitrose Brindisa smoked Catalan almonds These indulgent almonds have a subtle wood smoke as a step-up from your average pre-dinner…

Add an intense umami hit to Malaysian sambal (chilli paste) with tiny sun-dried shrimp. Combine the dried shrimp with red chillies, shallots, garlic, palm sugar and sea salt, whizz into a paste using a food processor, then sauté in hot oil for 5 minutes until aromatic. The peppery, citrus flavour of these narrow, pointed laksa leaves is a crucial component of Penang-style asam laksa, giving the noodle broth its distinct spicy and tangy kick. The medley of flavours from lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and red chilli forms the core of many Malaysian and Nyonya (Malay-Chinese) spice pastes. Rich, dark palm sugar from the state of Malacca, gula malacca has a beautiful coconut and caramel flavour. Sold in round blocks, it can be dissolved in simmering water and reduced to form a caramel. The incredible vanilla/coconut…