Vogue的July 2019目录

THIS MONTH WE BRING YOU the stories of two very different women: our cover star, actress Margot Robbie, and Dr. Jill Biden, an English professor whose husband, Joe, currently leads the ever-more-crowded race for the Democratic nomination. Despite their dissimilarities, though, Margot and Jill are united by the fact that both are leading authentic and admirable lives while currently experiencing moments of profound—and, quite possibly, ongoing—change. This is hardly surprising, given the current realities of both politics and moviemaking. Margot’s ascent in Hollywood comes at a time when an entire industry is being challenged on its past behaviors and attitudes, deifying women on-screen while too often doing precious little (and worse) to enhance their experiences behind the camera—something brought into sharp and shocking relief by the #MeToo movement. As writer…

1. “Soft-tissue mobilization gets the body moving correctly, and that’s when great things happen,” says Holder, who starts every workout with clients such as Bella Hadid and Naomi Campbell with 5 to 10 minutes of foam-rolling to stretch quads, calves, hamstrings, and glutes. 2. Holder’s cardio warm-up of choice is a jumping-rope circuit of 30-second intervals, alternating between faster and slower paces, for at least 10 minutes, followed by a 10-minute run or brisk walk on the treadmill at an incline. This really increases muscle elasticity, he insists. 3. Once the blood is pumping, Holder focuses on a targeted trio of “butt-busting” mat moves in reps of 10: bird dogs (extending the opposite arm and leg in unison); fire hydrants (raising one leg at a right angle out to the…

MOVIES Opening with the brilliant line “based on an actual lie,” writer-director Lulu Wang’s The Farewell is a story about who the truth serves. Nai Nai (Shuzhen Zhou)—a Chinese matriarch whose two sons have emigrated to America and Japan—is diagnosed with stage IV lung cancer and given three months to live. To the shock of Billi (Awkwafina), the American-raised granddaughter, the family decides not to tell Nai Nai about her illness. (Wang’s relatives took a similar tack with the director’s own grandmother, which she described on This American Life.) “Chinese people have a saying,” Billi’s mother says. “When people get cancer, they die. It’s not the cancer that kills them, it’s the fear.” So the family stages a wedding—real or fake, it’s left ambiguous—for Nai Nai’s Japanese grandson as an…

TALENT Chanelle Benz is fond of the (probably misattributed) Faulkner quote “To understand the world, you must first understand a place like Mississippi.” It explains why she was drawn to the Delta for the setting of her first novel, The Gone Dead (Ecco/HarperCollins), out this summer. “There’s just a wounded quality about everything,” says Benz, who used to drive with her husband through the tiny towns in the region. “It’s just all out in the open in Mississippi.” A gripping story tinged with Southern Gothic, The Gone Dead follows Billie James, a biracial woman from Philadelphia who moves into her late father’s tenant shack, nestled on decaying former plantation land. An obscure poet of the Black Arts era (modeled on Amiri Baraka), Billie’s father died in the seventies, under circumstances…

In the spring of 1983, I returned to my dorm room one day to find a note scrawled on the college message board: CALL THE WHITE HOUSE. At first I thought it was a joke. It was not unusual to get prank messages: MATT DILLON CALLED or PRINCE WOULD DIE 4 U, left by the work-study receptionist who also happened to be my roommate. I ignored it until several days later, when I remembered the woman from the Reagan administration who had come to speak at my college the year before about professions for women in politics and her work as the head of the Office of Congressional & Legislative Affairs. After her lecture, I had approached her to ask about a job. At that time I was a sophomore…

“I put this vase by my bed this morning and filled it with white hydrangeas,” says J. J. Martin, eponymous founder of the made-in-Italy label La DoubleJ—beloved for summer dresses made from prints so dazzlingly maximalist, a spill of Aperol Spritz wouldn’t ruin your day. This season, she’s branching out into bedding and decorative pillows, and adding to her current offerings of china, created with Veronese porcelain-makers Ancap—“one of the last suppliers who does everything within Italy,” Martin says. And should you really fancy this vase’s Wildbird print, Martin has also splashed it onto sheets, bedcovers, and, yes, her dresses. It’s never been easier to double up on La DoubleJ.…

SANYA KANTAROVSKY HAS JUST finished a painting. When I visit him in his Brooklyn studio, he tells me that the night before, he had been struggling with a piece he’d been working on for two weeks, and then, all of a sudden, around 4:00 a.m., he had a breakthrough. He painted over it and made a new one. It’s called Bud 5, and it shows a distressed man—one oversize hand held out in a “stop” gesture, the other pointing a pistol at the ceiling. “Bud” is R. Budd Dwyer, Pennsylvania’s state treasurer in the 1980s, who was convicted on bribery charges and shot himself in the mouth at a televised news conference. Kantarovsky, 37, was too young to be aware of the news at the time, but a friend later…

We’re living through an exotic, globe-trotting age of iced desserts—from booza to paletas, from whipped acai to frozen avocado. Tamar Adler has the scoop. ANA UHIBB, ANTA TUHIBB, nahnu jami’aan nuhibb al-booza! Isn’t that what the kids say these days? It should be. (The phrase is Arabic for I scream, you scream, we all scream for booza!) Booza is a Middle Eastern ice cream made with ground orchid root and tree resin, and before I go on about it—which I could for a while—I’d like to point out that booza is just one of a breathtaking variety of iced desserts on offer this summer. Whatever nadirs of democracy we’ve reached, we have ascended a pinnacle of frozen treats. Ours is a sweetened and chilled golden age! It is an ice-cream…

Table of contents: 14: On Van Rompaey: Dior blouse, turtleneck, and skirt, priced upon request; Dior stores. Wolford tights, $61; wolford.com. Birkenstock sandals, $100; birkenstock.com. On Kot: Brooks Brothers suit, $998; brooksbrothers.com. 45R shirt, $512; 45r-usa.com. Church’s shoes, $830; church-footwear.com. Cover look: 14: Shirt, $2,190; burberry.com. Sterling-silver necklace with citrine drop ($2,895) and sterling-silver wrap necklace ($3,800); johnhardy.com. V Life: 30: Dress, price upon request. Manicurist, Maki Sakamoto. Tailor, Christy Rilling Studio. 34: Cartier Magnitude High Jewelry emerald necklace with rock crystals, onyx, and diamonds, price upon request; available by appointment at select Cartier stores. 40: Chanel dress, $1,300; select Chanel stores. Manicurist, Christina Conrad. TAKING CONTROL 53: Ruffled bolero ($3,500) and dress ($8,500); marcjacobs.com. 55: Dress ($9,800) and gloves ($690); select Gucci stores. Headband, $1,125; ericjavits.com for information. Earrings,…

JULIE DE LIBRAN FASHION When Julie de Libran’s five-year run as artistic director at Sonia Rykiel ended in March, she wasted no time starting a new project: In Paris—a city chockablock with languishing creative directors in holding patterns between big jobs—de Libran is launching a label of her own. The project—a small collection of dresses, for starters—is not only right for de Libran; it jibes nicely with our current moment, in which the fashion industry has finally begun addressing its environmental impact. The very first piece de Libran designed, at the age of fourteen, was a black velvet dress with a boatneck, tight long sleeves, and a bubble skirt for a school dance. (“It was the eighties!” she says, laughing.) And though later, during her days in the backrooms of…

BEAUTY Under the soaring ceilings of the Grand Palais, two Italian brunettes are chattering at warp speed. The 20-year-old model Vittoria Ceretti, a muse of the late Karl Lagerfeld, is having her makeup done for Chanel’s recent cruise show while Lucia Pica, the house’s global creative makeup and color designer, shares a few instructional words with her team: “Fresca. Leggera. Ordinata.” Fresher, lighter, neater. On top of a sheer, natural base, Pica is using a steady hand to deliver the runway’s unexpected statement: an intensely glossy black lip. The collection is also Virginie Viard’s first solo outing as Chanel’s newly named creative director, and she is in the early stages of putting her own stamp on Karl’s and Coco’s legacies. But if her first and last looks—an easy jacket with…

JAYNE WRIGHTSMAN FIRST SAT FOR VOGUE in 1946, arriving at the studio where Cecil Beaton was working only to discover the exquisite actress Vivien Leigh “coming out in this bower of lilac,” as she recalled. “She was so beautiful.” So beautiful, in fact, that Jayne was taken aback when she learned that she was expected to sit on the same set. “Mr. Beaton, I’m not staying here to be photographed,” she declared. “Oh, yes you are!” he said. Jayne and Beaton became friends from that day. “I loved him,” she told me. “Thank God we had Cecil, or we’d have no Mrs. Wrightsman,” she added in her characteristically self-deprecating way. “He used to come every year and say, ‘My dear, shall we do it one last time?’ And I’d say,…