Shape

I’ve been a beauty editor with a front-row seat to the beauty industry for almost 15 years, and I’ve never been more excited than I am now about the topic of skin. At the beginning of my career in the early aughts, the biggest buzzword was “antioxidants,” pros were still discovering the best way to wield lasers, and the latest research was finding that, sure, wrinkles make skin appear older, but it turns out uneven skin tone is a big sign of aging, too. As a reporter, I often got such information by calling dermatologists on the phone. But many women learned about skin trends in magazines, on TV, or from sidling up to the cosmetics counter at a department store. Back then, there was a lot of non-skin-care stuff…

Acne Advances That Make a Real Difference If you feel like you’re breaking out more than usual, you’re not wrong. “Acne is worse than ever,” Mona Gohara, M.D., says. The reasons are vast—elevated stress levels, eating habits, face masks, hormonal shifts, and changes in our routines—which is why getting a customized regimen from a dermatologist is key. For example, “If you have hormonal acne, then Winlevi has become one of my go-to solutions,” Karan Lal, D.O., says. “It’s a prescription cream that blocks androgen receptors on oil glands to reduce the sebum production that plays a role in forming acne.” (Read more about it on page 37.) There’s also JORI Acne & Oil Control Primer, a new salicylic acid formula. “The mattifying gel treats acne while absorbing shine and minimizing the…

THE HYDRATORS Niacinamide As far as active ingredients go, niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, is seen as more of a workhorse than a hero. However, recent times have catapulted niacinamide’s popularity thanks to its ability to moisturize, support the skin barrier, soothe, and help treat hyperpigmentation, acne, and wrinkles “without causing irritation,” says Caroline Robinson, M.D., a dermatologist in Chicago. In other words, it can do the same heavy lifting that other actives do without the redness or dryness they might cause. In fact, it makes skin calmer as it gets firmer and smoother. “Niacinamide helps increase the production of ceramides that keep our skin barrier strong and hydrated,” Dr. Robinson says. Then it goes to work offering a slew of side benefits. “That’s because niacinamide is both an antioxidant and…

Messages coming at us from the skin-care world have been mixed. On one hand, we’ve seen the rise of clean ingredients and sustainable packaging. On the other, our Instagram feeds have showcased meticulously arranged medicine cabinets full of extensive (and expensive) collections of essences, toners, and masks, along with our favorite influencers sharing the latest launches. It all can make us want to beeline to Sephora and stockpile hyaluronic acid. And that’s exactly what a lot of us do—and why our super-stuffed beauty routines can quickly become overwhelming and confusing, according to celebrity makeup artist and green-beauty expert Kristen Arnett. “If you don’t understand how to use a product, it’s not going to do you any good anyway,” she says. Instead, she extols the benefits of winnowing your product stash down…

Like many women, Stacy London, a fashion stylist and former cohost of What Not to Wear, was baffled by the changes she began noticing in her skin at age 47. “I didn’t understand why it was so dry and itchy and why my routine and the products that had worked before suddenly didn’t,” London says. It’s a common complaint: “Estrogen starts declining during perimenopause, a highly variable period for women that starts in our 30s to mid-40s. The effect—dramatic shifts in the quality of skin—is magnified during menopause in our mid-40s and 50s,” says Jonquille Chantrey, M.D., a dermatologist in London. “Lowered estrogen levels alter collagen and elastin production, weakening the dermis and reducing hydration levels.” This, in turn, causes fine lines to crop up, as well as a loss…

It feels like everybody is breaking out these days,” says Laurel Geraghty, M.D., a dermatologist in Oregon. Indeed, dermatologists are getting cries for help from a growing number of patients with acne. “People who don’t usually break out are dealing with flare-ups that are coming from chronic stress and disrupted sleep,” she says. But here’s the good news: There are three new FDA-approved medications for treating moderate to severe acne, as well as a slew of excellent OTC topicals (including adapalene, a retinoid that used to require a prescription). There’s also an entirely different game plan for getting clear. Forget drying out your skin and smothering it with products, which typically leads to inflammation and more breakouts. Dermatologists advise a gentler—and more effective—approach. AN ACTIVE BUT SIMPLIFIED ROUTINE Who hasn’t thrown the kitchen…