Cibo e Vino

Decanter May-2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
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12 Numeri

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1 minuti
the joy of terroir

These are the Sodacci and Montecalcini vineyards, which cover about 30ha of Brolio, an area near the medieval town of Gaiole in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico appellation. They reach up to 490m altitude and have sandstone soils mixed with the region’s signature schistous-clay called galestro. The 23-year-old vines grown here are used to make Chianti Classico’s red blends, dominated by Sangiovese and complemented by Merlot and other Bordeaux varieties. The sites form part of the Barone Ricasoli estate (including the bottling and ageing facilities seen here) which was established in the 13th century, although the family has owned the area’s namesake palace, Castello di Brolio, since 1141. In 1872, their ancestor Bettino Ricasoli created the original Chianti wine recipe of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 15% Malvasia Bianca.…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

IT’S NO GREAT surprise that Tesco’s Finest Pinot Grigio 2016 didn’t make it onto Andrew Jefford’s list of world-beaters (see p66). Nonetheless, this enjoyable wine, made by the Cantina di Monforte in Trentino, is worthy of note. At just under £8, it’s proof that this much-maligned grape can produce good, authentic wine at lower price points. It also demonstrates a resurgent own-label category in UK supermarkets, which is great news for wine lovers. Earlier this year, I appeared on BBC Radio 4’s consumer programme You and Yours to discuss the trend. To do my research, I visited various multiple retailers to check out their ranges and benchmark them against some of the big brands in terms of price, quality and value. Predictably, most of the mass-market brands were blandly disappointing. By contrast,…

6 minuti
a month in wine

Bordeaux 2017 frost likely to cost E1.6bn THE DEVASTATING FROST that caused a 40% drop in Bordeaux’s 2017 wine harvest has resulted in a production of about 350 million litres, some 300 million bottles less than the (unusually large) 2016 vintage. Jane Anson reports on that this is about 33% smaller than the 10-year average, and is expected to cost the region up to €1.6 billion in lost revenue. There are a number of high-profile estates that will not be bottling any first wine at all, including Château Corbin in St-Emilion and Château Fieuzal in Pessac-Léognan. Château Fleur Cardinale in St-Emilion will produce only 1,000 magnums. At Fleur Cardinale, only the highest part of the estate, on limestone terroir, escaped the frost, which means the wine will be an unusual blend of 45%…

1 minuti
in brief

A magnum of 1961 Dom Pérignon Champagne specially shipped to mark the Royal wedding of Charles, Prince of Wales, and Lady Diana Spencer is up for auction. Sworders Fine Art Auctioneers will conduct the sale on 28 March. The bottle – one of a limited number – has an estimate of £2,500-£3,000. Sussex wine estate Rathfinny plans to bring back imperial pint bottles for its English sparkling wine once Brexit is implemented, saying they were known as Sir Winston Churchill’s ‘ideal’ size. The winery has made 800 bottles of its English sparkling 2015 in the 56.8cl measure — prohibited by the EU since 1973. They will be termed a ‘Sussex pint’, in tribute to the winery’s location. New figures from UK customs body HMRC show that British gin exports reached…

4 minuti

Revealing price bands JOHN STIMPFIG STATES in his column (April 2018 issue) that ‘we have begun to give our expert judges information about the prices of individual wines when they blind taste them... with the firm intention of recognising and rewarding quality and value’. This is a really stupid and illogical idea. All that will happen is that the critics will score the flight of more expensive wines higher than the less expensive wines. They probably would have done this anyway, but it would have been objective. Now they are given the nudge about this: eg (subconsciously) ‘I’d better not give this a 94: it’s under £15.’ One of the great things about Decanter panel tastings up to now was that, within a certain appellation, the wines were blind and the prices unknown.…

1 minuti
rhône recollections

MATT WALLS’ ARTICLE on the excellent 2016 vintage in the southern Rhone (April 2018 issue) brought back happy memories. I spent several languid days in Rasteau and Cairanne in August that year, and had a thoroughly enjoyable time wandering through the parched, sun-kissed vineyards. What struck me as most remarkable was that there wasn’t a soul tending the vines! Canopies were out of control in places, and I could see signs of disease on some of the bunches. When I brought up the absence of vineyard workers during a tasting in Cairanne, I was informed that everyone was on holiday… Clearly the French have been right all along: terroir truly is all-important! Michael Walker, Edinburgh…