Cibo e Vino

Decanter Jun-2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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12 Numeri

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1 minuti
the joy of terroir

The Abandonado vineyard, which faces the Marao mountain range, covers 2ha of the Douro Valley towards Portugal’s northwestern border with Spain. It is an 85-year-old field blend vineyard at 500m altitude, growing indigenous varieties such as Sousao, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca used in both table wines and Ports. The vineyard’s name means ‘the abandoned one’ as its owners, the Alves de Sousa family, were unable to harvest from the steep, rocky schist slope for many years. Domingos Alves de Sousa and his son Tiago decided to bottle a single-vineyard red from the plot in 2004 as a farewell gesture before tearing up the low-yielding vines and the quality was so good they knew it had to be preserved. The wine named for this vineyard is only made…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

EN ROUTE TO Bordeaux last month to taste the region’s 2017 vintage, the omens were hardly auspicious. Usually, the Easy Jet flight is full of the UK wine trade. But my flight was noticeably lacking in UK merchants – save one who spent most of the trip bemoaning the poor margins that en primeur now provides. Arriving in Pessac, the skies were leaden. Moreover, the forecast for the week was not much better. Low pressure and rain are neither conducive to tasting, nor mood. And to cap it all, the SNCF train service and Air France were both on strike. Would buyers and press show up for what appeared to be a challenging, frost-reduced vintage on the back of two blockbusters in 2016 and 2015 (see p62). Happily, the answer was yes.…

5 minuti
amonth in wine

‘13 Olympic pools’ of fake Rhône seized FRENCH ANTI-FRAUD OFFICIALS have revealed that they seized millions of bottles-worth of wine falsely labelled with popular Rhône appellations, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape, as part of an investigation begun in 2017. The three-year fraud operation, allegedly run by the head of a single merchant house in southern France, produced enough wine to fill 13 Olympic swimming pools, said France’s consumer protection and fraud office, the DGCCRF, in its annual report on investigations conducted in 2017. The report states that between October 2013 and June 2016, about 200,000 hectolitres of wine with no designation of origin (IGP) had been wrongly labelled as Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages. Of that, 10,000 hectolitres – the equivalent of 1.3 million bottles – had been unlawfully labelled as Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The true…

1 minuti
in brief

EU wine producers, alongside beer and spirits makers, will make more nutritional and ingredients information available to consumers, according to the international trade body CEEV, including how many calories the drinks contain. Calorie information would be presented as ‘E’ denoting ‘energy’ amounts. Château Giscours is facing court, following the French authorities’ accusation that it knowingly chaptalised Merlot for its 2016 vintage, the only grape variety not permitted to undergo the process in the Margaux appellation that year. ‘There was no intention…to do anything against the regulations,’ Alexander Van Beek, director general of Giscours, told Decanter. China’s Ministry of Commerce warned it will impose a tax on US wine, as well as more than 100 other goods, if the US follows through on tariff plans for Chinese steel imports. ‘Retaliation against…

4 minuti

Glass-cleaning tip RE: YOUR ADVICE to the reader who had cloudy build-up on his stemware (‘Notes & Queries’, March 2018 issue). I’ve invested heavily in Riedel glasses which I treat gently, yet they all go in the dishwasher. In 15 years, I’ve had no breakage, chips, or filmy build-up. The secret (aside from judicious placement on the rack) is the washing powder. Commercial dishwashing powder contains phosphates. These clean even the most stubborn grime off of pots and pans but are devastating to glassware. Switch to a ‘natural’ dishwashing powder (I use a brand called Seventh Generation) and your glassware will come out spotless and streak free, and the build-up won’t occur. Most natural products use acetic acid, which is kind to stemware, even where the water is extremely hard. Everyday life is so…

1 minuti
bring back chardonnay

SOME YEARS AGO there was a movement in California called ‘ABC’ – Anything But Chardonnay. People were apparently satiated with Chardonnay to the extent that they didn’t want any more. The effect of that fashion has brought about an alteration in the taste of the wine which many of us still love. Chardonnay should undergo malolactic fermentation to produce a soft, buttery wine, redolent of the familiar vanillin taste, and yes, enhanced by judicious use of oak. Instead, these days, we are offered a sharp, thin wine, often light bodied and in some cases too similar to Sauvignon Blanc for comfort. Could we start a ‘BBC’ movement? Bring Back Chardonnay! Lead on this, Decanter. Dr Rob Caird Greywell, Hampshire…