Cibo e Vino

Decanter January 2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
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12 Numeri

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1 minuti
the joy of terroir

A frosted vineyard in southern Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, in the historic wine village of St-Romain. Just over 97ha of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines are planted here, spread over hillside parcels ranging between 280m-400m in altitude. Pictured is the lieu-dit known as Sous le Château, due to its proximity to Château de St-Romain, a castle that has presided over the hillside for more than 500 years. These are 22-year-old Chardonnay vines owned by Domaine Coste-Caumartin, a family-run winery based in nearby Pommard. The southeast-facing slope, featuring limestone-marl soils with clay pockets, produces typical Burgundian dry white wines, lightly oaked and mineral in character. Jutting into the vineyard is the old village priory, built in the 17th century and weathering the winter alongside the vines.…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

CURIOUSLY, THE OLDER I get, the more I seem to enjoy and appreciate younger, primary fruit flavours. That’s not to say that I don’t like a gorgeously mature claret or Rioja. But perhaps the age element in wine holds less interest now than when I was first starting out. One exception is great vintage Champagne, especially those cuvées which are really built to last. Time and again, I am dazzled by the sheer complexity of these age-defying wines. What I love most is their interplay of texture, taste and freshness. I have long contended that far too much fizz is consumed with indecent haste. I was most recently reminded of this at an awe-inspiring dinner marking the 241st anniversary of Louis Roederer in Reims. The brilliantly choreographed event was a feast for…

5 minuti
a month in wine

Pressure on wine prices as volumes drop SMALL HARVESTS IN Europe’s main vine-growing countries mean that world wine production has sunk to levels rarely seen since the 1950s and early 1960s, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) said. The organisation estimated that global production would hit 246.7 million hectolitres in 2017, down by 8% versus 2016. Severe spring frosts and a spike of hot weather dubbed the ‘Lucifer heatwave’ mean that Italy is facing its smallest harvest for 60 years and France is expected to produce one of its lowest grape hauls since World War II. Spain and Germany are also expected to see harvests fall, although the US is expected to produce the same volume as last year – despite the recent fires in California wine country. Italy, France and Spain are…

1 minuti
in brief

n China’s leader, Xi Jinping, served Chinese wines to President Donald Trump during a formal dinner in Beijing. Trump has declared himself teetotal, but other US and Chinese delegates enjoyed Great Wall’s Chateau SunGod wines including The Chief Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. n Lab tests confirmed that a bottle of Macallan 1878 Scotch whisky, dubbed the world’s most expensive Scotch, is a fake — but not before a Chinese tourist paid £7,700 for a single dram at a hotel in St Moritz. Analysis at Oxford University showed that the liquid was only around 45 years old. n Luxury fashion house Chanel has confirmed it has bought Château Berliquet, a St-Emilion grand cru classé. The property joins Chanel’s growing Bordeaux wine estate portfolio, which also includes nearby Château Canon and…

3 minuti

Organic growth HOW REFRESHING TO see your article on organic and biodynamic wine (December 2017 issue). I have been long been a champion of these methods, and have been frustrated by the lack of attention and coverage they get. Many people are vocal on the use of pesticides, chemicals and GMOs in the food industry, but in the wine world little is ever mentioned. If more were done to show what actually goes on in the vineyards, I believe we would see more people seeking out these wines. Amy Lewis, London Scoring plea AS A DEVOTED READER of Decanter, I always look forward to your tastings. In the November 2017 issue, I noted Col d’Orcia’s score of 96 in your Brunello di Montalcino 2012 tasting. When I discovered that the nearest shop had it,…

1 minuti
education is the key

WANDERING THE WINE aisle of my local supermarket is a depressing experience. I’m sure fellow readers will also bemoan the lack of diversity on offer. We could criticise supermarkets for a lack of ambition; equally they could retort that they’re only supplying what consumers want. After all, all wine in the UK retailing at over £10 a bottle represents barely 2% of total volume. There is a huge missed opportunity here. Many consumers would experiment, and spend more, if they had the confidence to do so. So how do we get more consumers to drink better? I recently had the honour of becoming a Master of Wine – as a consumer, not a wine professional. My research paper examined the wine education of UK consumers. A key finding was this: taking…