Cibo e Vino

Decanter July 2017

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
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12 Numeri

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1 minuti
château lafite rothschild, pauillac

Part of the 112ha estate of Médoc powerhouse Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux, this parcel surrounding the château buildings is known as Plateau de Lafite. It is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot on limestone subsoils topped by gravel mixed with aeolian sand. The sun-exposed plateau is 25 metres above the Gironde estuary and bordered by oaks, poplars and willow trees. Some of the vines date back to 1886, but the average age is 40 years old. They produce full-bodied, structured and ageworthy red wines. Headed by Baron Eric de Rothschild since 1974, the family acquired Château Lafite in 1868. However, Lafite’s history dates back to the 14th century, when it was a fief known as ‘la hite’, meaning ‘hillock’ in…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

SIXTEEN YEARS AGO, I bought a case of Château Léoville-Poyferré 2000 for my son to be handed over on his 21st birthday. Two years later, I did the same for my second son, with a case of Léoville-Barton 2002. My daughter will get a case of Pontet-Canet 2006. Unfortunately though, what seemed like three good ideas more than a decade ago aren’t necessarily working out quite as intended. For a start, my two boys’ relationship with wine is already startlingly different to my own. Most recently, on his 17th birthday, I offered the eldest a glass of Champagne (Deutz’s Cuvée William Deutz 2006, no less), which was specially opened in his honour. At his age, I’d have guzzled it down and begged for more. But he barely touched it. Then, to rub…

5 minuti
a month in wine

Extreme weather hits Europe… VINEYARDS ACROSS EUROPE suffered potentially devastating damage as a series of late spring frosts swept across the continent in late April. Bordeaux experienced what many fear is the region’s worst frost in a quarter of a century, and regions as diverse as Champagne, the Languedoc, Alsace, the Loire Valley and Jura were also impacted. Damage was also reported in northern Italy, Switzerland, Germany and the UK. Bordeaux’s Right Bank was particularly badly affected, with only the plateau of Pomerol mostly spared. In some parts, ‘losses of 50% to 100% are envisaged’, said Thomas Duclos, associate oenologist at Oenoteam. The damage was especially bad because vines were already well into their growing season, thanks to the warm spring. Farming union FDSEA described the damage as ‘devastating’ and added that, for those facing…

1 minuti
in brief

Port house Taylor’s marked its 325th anniversary with the unveiling of a limited-edition tawny that arrived in London by yacht from the Douro. The re-enactment of Taylor’s first shipment of Port to the UK in the 17th century included a cask of the Port – a blend of the best wines chosen for Taylor’s aged tawnies. American consumers drank more wine priced above $10 a bottle as shipments of Californian wine within the US hit record levels last year. Volumes were up 2% to 238m cases in 2016, according to The Gomberg-Fredrikson Report, thanks to population growth and increased consumption by younger millennials. Champagne-led wine business Maisons & Domaines Henriot has acquired a majority stake in Oregon Pinot Noir producer Beaux Frères Vineyard. Existing shareholders and founders Michael Etzel and the wine…

3 minuti

Something fishy I ENJOYED ANDY Howard MW’s article on Chablis ( June 2017 issue), until I got to the comment about fossil molluscs, ammonites and other invertebrates being responsible for the shellfish characteristics associated with Chablis. In our heads maybe, but in terms of soil science and geology, unlikely. The late Jurassic period was 152 to 157 million years ago. Do we really believe that dead oysters and squids could retain their seafood aromatics and taste for so many millions of years? And then be able to contribute any character to a wine, after being buried, compressed, heated to form fossils and bedrock and decomposed to create soil? And that’s before we get to the growing body of science from the likes of Professor Alex Maltman highlighting the lack of known…

1 minuti
letter of the month

EVERYONE LOVES A bargain, but can you really make a decent wine for a tenner? The bewildering variation in scores of wines that commonly hit above £40 a bottle lead folk like me to exercise a high degree of caution. Your ‘Weekday Wines’ are a nod in my direction, but I still hesitate to spend much above £10 a bottle. Some of the best bargains come to light when an unknown supermarket wine trounces all comers in one of your tastings. So it happened in 2010, when Vinalba’s Malbec-Syrah 2008 from Patagonia scooped a DWWA Trophy. As I picked up six bottles at Asda for about £6 each (on offer at the time), I wondered whether such an inexpensive wine would age well, so I stored three bottles. We opened one…