Cibo e Vino

Decanter June 2017

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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1 minuti
broadview east, finger lakes

The Broadview East vineyard spans 3ha of the southeastern shore of Seneca Lake, the largest of New York’s Finger Lakes. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon vines are planted here, ranging from 17 to 31 years old. It’s part of Chateau LaFayette Reneau’s estate, founded in 1985 – Dick and Betty Reno realised the winemaking potential of the rolling lakeside slopes, formerly used for fruit and dairy farming. The vineyard sits at 244m altitude, and a microclimate is maintained by the west winds coming off the water, coupled with exposure to the late afternoon sun. The cool climate and good drainage from silt-loam soils contribute to the dry, medium-bodied character of the white wines, and the full-bodied reds. Beyond the black walnut tree and pond, sister vineyard Broadview West curves…

2 minuti
john stimpf ig

ANYONE READING THIS magazine is, by definition, not a typical wine consumer. I’d wager that you’re altogether more discerning, adventurous, inquisitive and broadminded when it comes to what you put in your wine glass. I’d also bet that, like me, you’re probably a hybrid when it comes to what you drink. For instance, we all have our long-standing default, ‘comfort zone’ regions. Conversely, we’re also always on the lookout for something new and exciting. Is that a conflict of interest? Not in my cellar book. Nevertheless, there remains a pervading feeling among certain aficionados that some regions’ wines are innately superior to others. Perhaps the most prevalent is that when it comes to fizz, Champagne is the only option. Don’t get me wrong – I love Champagne as much as the next man.…

5 minuti
amonth in wine

Brexit ‘requires interim deal’ MEMBERS OF THE wine trade on both sides of the English Channel have united to call for a transitional deal to keep trade flowing freely as the UK prepares to leave the European Union. With more than half of the wine imported into the UK coming from the EU, the UK’s Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) joined forces with European trade body CEEV to call for the ratification of a transitional trade deal. The call came as UK Prime Minister Theresa May informed Parliament that the Government had triggered Article 50, officially starting the two-year ‘Brexit’ process. The WSTA warned that bottlenecks at UK ports could create ‘lorry parks’ in the southeast of England if a deal to keep trade flowing is not agreed by the time Brexit happens…

1 minuti
in brief

Port and table wine producer Symington Family Estates has ventured outside the Douro Valley with the purchase of a vineyard in Portugal’s Alto Alentejo region. The 207-hectare property includes 43ha of mature vineyards on well-drained schist and granite soils, at altitudes of between 490m and 550m. Cockburn’s has declared the 2015 vintage – the year in which the Port house celebrated its bicentenary. The wine is only the second Cockburn’s vintage Port made by new owner Symington Family Estates, which acquired Cockburn’s vineyards and cellars in 2006, and the brand itself in 2010. Singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran has acquired a villa and vineyard close to the town of Paciano in Umbria, central Italy. Sheeran, whose album Divide has become one of the fastest-selling in UK chart history, told The Sun newspaper that it…

4 minuti

The gift of friendship FASCINATING LETTER FROM Brian Rauder (April 2017) on the perils of sharing a prized wine with less discerning friends. This came hot on the heels of a discussion I had with a fellow wine enthusiast on this very subject. Like Mr Rauder, she felt that serving a cherished or hard-won bottle to those unaware of the honour bestowed on them was, at best, a waste. Yet it is easy to hold wines back, waiting for the right moment or company in which to enjoy them, only to discover you’ve kept them too long, diminishing the enjoyment for all. In addition, while wine can be a subject worthy of reverence, surely it is also a means of expressing our sociability and our generosity? I am as likely to open…

1 minuti
letter of the month

YOUR APPRAISAL OF Chilean wine (April 2017 issue) praises its ‘greater freshness, with less extraction, greater fruit and less oak’, a view mirrored almost verbatim by Peter Richards MW on Chilean Carmenere and Tim Atkin MW on South African Chardonnay. This pared-down style is surely a necessary correction after the oak bombs of the 1990s. But has the drive for freshness gone too far? It’s also alluded to by Hugh Johnson, in your Rhône vintage report, the article on Pézenas and it dominates the Argentinian reds piece – all in the same issue. It seems to have moved from welcome antidote to orthodoxy, hegemony and now almost tyranny. Surely there’s room for variety? Sometimes I enjoy extracted, oaky wines.…