Cibo e Vino

Decanter March 2017

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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12 Numeri

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1 minuti
scala dei, priorat

The Masdeu vineyard sits between the Monsant mountains and village of Scala Dei, part of Priorat in southwest Catalonia in Spain. It covers 12 hectares and has an altitude of 800m, making it the highest estate owned by Cellers de Scala Dei, who bought it in 1835. Masdeu was first cultivated by the Carthusian monks in the 12th century; they named the area ‘Scala Dei’, or ‘ladder of God’. The ruins of their monastery remain, as do their records specifying that Masdeu was best suited to Garnacha. The same grape is grown today, and the vines are almost 50 years old. They typically produce aromatic, medium-bodied reds, which balance boldness and minerality from clay and limestone soils. Pine and oak trees surround the vineyard, as well as rosemary, lavender and…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

IN THE PAST two decades, I’ve lived in six houses – none of which possessed a cellar worthy of the name. Our latest move was just last year and was undertaken on the understanding that it was permanent. The house has much to recommend it but, much to my regret, this does not include a suitable repository for my wine. And so my dream of having it stored conveniently at home has been dashed again. It’s a common problem, to which there are various solutions. One is to keep it in bond, but the downside of this can be cost and convenience. Those with larger collections and deeper pockets could create a bespoke wine room or dig a Spiral Cellar. Those of us with more modest resources can buy a wine…

5 minuti
a month in wine

California wine store owner jailed PREMIER CRU WINE store owner John Fox has been jailed for six-and-a-half years after he admitted running a wine ‘Ponzi scheme’ that defrauded customers of at least US$45m. Fox, co-founder of the store in Berkeley, California, spent the stolen money on fast cars and women, orchestrating what US District Judge James Donato described as ‘a long-running empire of deception’ dating back to the late-1990s. His lavish purchases included Corvettes, Ferraris, Mercedes-Benzes and a Maserati, golf club memberships and spending more than $900,000 on women he met on the internet. Fox falsified purchase orders for wine he never bought, entering the ‘phantom’ bottles into the retailer’s inventory and then selling it on to customers. Between 2010 and 2015 alone, according to his plea agreement, Fox sold or caused Premier Cru’s salespeople…

1 minuti
in brief

Winemakers in Chablis are hailing victory after plans to build a tar factory near their vineyards were scrapped by regional government and the road management firm behind the proposal. Producers had warned that pollution from the plant would damage their vineyards. Oenologist Pierre Vincent has been appointed general manager of Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, joining from Domaine de la Vougeraie, where he was technical director. He will work with Brice de la Morandière, who has managed the iconic house since the death of Anne-Claude Leflaive in April 2015. Vandals destroyed the equivalent of 400,000 bottles of sparkling wine, worth about €500,000, when they drained tanks at the historic Conte Vistarino winery in Oltrepo Pavese, northern Italy. Workers found the estate grounds soaked in grape juice and skins after the nighttime attack on…

3 minuti

Help the aged LIFE EXPECTANCY NOW surpasses 80 years in most developed countries. How strange then that your guide to anniversary buys (January 2017 issue) stops at 80 years old. What to buy for friends and relatives turning 90? I recently tried the 1927 Château d’Yquem and found it very agreeable. Might be hard to come by, but nonetheless recommendable! Personally, I will turn 50 next year, but won’t expect any great bottles to come my way. According to The Wine Cellar Insider , ‘The 1968 Bordeaux vintage was the wettest since 1951. Most, if not all wines are undrinkable today.’ Gunnar Sonesson, Stockholm Purple prose ON READING THE article on ‘winespeak’ (December 2016), I was reminded of a quote by Anthony Dias Blue: ‘Ventana Vineyards’ Chardonnay opens with a crescendo of apples, plays some…

1 minuti
letter of the month

WILLIAM KELLEY’S PIECE on barrels (November 2016 issue) was elevating. But as I sit, cooped up at home, I feel there is one thing missing: barrel size. Sur lie some mistake. We read Decanter to stave off ignorance, longing to have tuns of information at our fingertips, so I am racking my brains as to why the crucial issue of cask size wasn’t mentioned. We none of us want to be the butt of jokes among knowledgable friends, so in order for us to be puncheon above our weight in wine debates, please might you shed light on this at some time in the future. And by the way, I do have a rich and fulfilling life: I don’t spend all my time on puns – that woud be sad…